Originally Posted by
Drew Wiley
Beseler never was a bit of help with these, even when they were new and allegedly still under warranty. They're a bit tricky to analyze unless you have both a spare control panel as well as spare power supply to selectively switch out, and at least in that manner know which component is at fault. The theory behind the design was good, but some of the components are a bit weak and quite susceptible to EMI (electomagnetic interference). You shouldn't have any electronic lighting ballasts or other strong solid-state devices anywhere in proximity, or any strong voltage surges, including from nearby lightning strikes. So use your multimeter to check for how consistent your line voltage actually is. Sometimes the triacs go bad (or were weak to begin with), but are inexpensive to replace. The machine is designed to shut down if any one of the three circuits has a problem, whether a burned-out bulb, or dirt over one of the colored feedback receptors near the bottom of the mixing chamber (check it). Are you getting light at all? If so which color? If you punch in 200Y/200M/00C, only the red circuit is activated, so you should get pure red light; if 200Y/00M/200C, you activate only the green bulb; if 00Y/200M/200C, you get strictly the blue lamp circuit. That's the fastest way to isolate which branch the problem is on, at least if that much is operable. Just a few months ago somebody posted their own private repair service for these with a set fee, but I don't remember if it was on this forum or Photrio. It might take a bit of search engine backtracking. And it might take some patience; but these can be wonderful devices once they're de-bugged.
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