Often, I'll calculate the DOF based on some chart or the lens, and then add a stop on my aperture for good measure. Just in case I figured wrong or placed the focal point at the wrong distance from where it should be for the calculated aperture.
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Well said. A few years back I made a 5x7 box camera with a fixed 90mm lens. At f22 it has a huge depth of field, and it is really refreshing to just concentrate on the scene and not be able to faff around with all sorts of settings.
Many popular 35mm cameras had markings for 'zone focussing', usually near (for shots of people) and far (for landscapes). My Retina IIa (with a great Xenon lens) has these two markings, at f8 they give depth of field (the manual says) from 7ft to 15ft, and 12ft to infinity. If one hyperfocal (with a small aperture) doesn't work for you then you could do a similar thing with two dof's, marking the two points on the bed with tape. Just remember that racked out is closer, racked in is far away!
Of course you may already have gone on your trip - would be great to see the results!
I know you say you dont want to focus, but does your speed have a rangefinder? I dont see a reason not to use it. Ive been shooting a lot of handheld crown/speed shots and its a quick camera to use. Use the rangefinder, focus, frame with the wire finder. Already have all your settings decided before you start the focusing process.
Isn't it the Rule-Of-Thumb that infinity focus can be taken to be ten times focal length measured from the lens to the subject?
Someone here will come up with a formula I'll bet.
Drew Bedo
www.quietlightphoto.com
http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo
There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!
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