Having trouble making up my mind. 300-360 seems to be the focal length that would be most appropriate.
On the list so far is a commercial Ektar 14” and a Schneider Symmar S 360. Other than that I’m struggling.
Any thoughts ?
Oh and I do a fair amount of color work as well.
Intrepid camera max bellows listed at 560mm
Last edited by 1erCru; 15-Aug-2020 at 18:30.
355mm G-Claron comes to mind, but for tabletop requires a lot of bellows extension. A 210mm G-Claron would require a lot less bellows extension. Do you know the maximum bellows extension on your 8x10? Might want to add that on to your post.
A 210-250 would be better.
I'd suggest the Fujinon 250 f/6.7.
I worked with an "odd couple" for many years. A Fujinon 250 6.7 and a G Claron 355 9. A little bit wide and a little bit long. Made very pleasing 11X14s, 16X20s and 20X24s back through them using cameras as enlargers and later with a Beseler 45M converted to 8X10.Originally Posted by Ari
Let this combination be so dubbed.
I have the "odd couple," and the two lenses work out well together.
The 250mm f6x7 is inexpensive; yet, it has quite a lot of coverage on 8x10. It's a moderate wide-field lens for this format.
While a bit on the expensive side, the 355mm G-Claron is relatively light-weight, has large coverage stopped down, and is capable of excellent photos. It's a moderate long focal length lens for 8x10.
By contrast, I had a Symmar S 360, and was HEAVY and HUGE! It's filter size was about 120mm. (Jeepers.) I replaced it with the 355mm.
I've had this urge to get a 300mm; but, I've been put off by the expense. So, I just purchased a Turner-Reich, Series II 12" triple-convertible (12", 21", 28mm) f7 lens for less than $300. It's mounted in an Alphax #4 shutter. The lens is factory coated, so It will be interesting to see images that it can produce.
To build on what Greg sez, you need to double your bellows extension for 1:1 of your FL (which is 8X10 shooting area common in TT), so for 300mm, can your bellows extend to 600mm to achieve that???
And you want to shoot sculpture, so what scale/size will you shoot???
Your choice is a numbers game, so determine those first...
Steve K
I’ve been shooting 4x5 for three years and pretty much only use a schneider 210 Apo Symmar and occasionally a Rodenstock 150. I’ve never shot with an 8x10 and picked up an Intrepid. I was under the assumption that a 150 on a 4x5 was equivalent to a 300 on an 8x10. I have no frame of reference so am assuming my logic is faulty.
The sculptures aren’t large. Looking for a normal perspective but preferably a little bit beyond normal. Definitely don’t want it to look like a wide angle shot.
Given your choices, I'd try the Symmar-S 360. The Ektar (one of my favorites) will have a slightly different 'look', lower in contrast than the lenses you're used to. It would still be a fine choice for 'everyday' 8x10 work, too.
I'd get a brace that runs between your front tripod leg and the front standard of your 8x10, too; view cameras are often a bit shaky at max extension, and you'll need small f/stops for DOF (and the resulting long exposures).
Your 210 should work well if you're dealing with very small subjects and need to get more magnification on-film.
Shooting close-up and tabletop work can be a fascinating challenge- best of luck, and post your results when you have any!
Most of my indoor work is done at or near 1:1. A 210mm works fine on my Lehman. I pre-focus with a tape measure. I run the bellows out to 420mm, then move the camera so the lens is 420mm from the subject. Fine focus on the ground glass.
+1!! Get a 210G-Claron.
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