Glue used to make bellow.

[kissssss]

Hi everyone,

When we make bellows, we need some kinds of glues to cement the in-and-out liners, and bellows with front/back.

I saw a YouTube video where the guy uses a spraying glue. But then I uses this, it shows no good to stick 2 sheets of paper. For me, the fabric sheets need something better to bond together.

So, I would like to hear your every idea who certainly succeeded to DIY bellow.

Thanks 😊😊😊

[Andrew O'Neill]

When I made my own bellows several years ago, I used contact cement in a spray can. It worked really well...

[Rick A]

In the past I've used 3M Brand Spray 90 adhesive to replace headliners in cars. I've also used it to do small formica and veneer jobs. These days I would recommend Super 77 spray, it's low VOC and nearly as strong as Spray 90.

[jimskelton]

I just made a bellows and used PVA book binding glue to glue the ribs on, then used Elmer's spray adhesive to glue on the lining. With the spray adhesive, you only have 15 seconds to lay down the fabric, or it won't be permanent.

[Drew Wiley]

Spray glue is a fast ticket to a short lifespan. It should never be used except in an industrial spark-proof spray booth. Yeah, I know, people do it all the time, and I've also seen the results. And the stuff truly is infamous in its health hazards. I'm a bit skeptical about the long-term reliability of the less hazardous variety; but it's gotta be a better choice unless you want to become the next glue-sniffing deadhead. We had a direct 3M industrial distributor account, and sold multiple varieties, both in cans and aerosol, with my verbal warnings dismissed by some, mostly illegal temps applying insulation to steel pipes, and lifetime debilitated after a couple years of that.

The expert who used the spray to hang mirror-smooth stainless steel "wallpaper" died of a premature heart attack, so no telling. A big pharma multi-billionaire had each of his 22 racehorse stalls veneered with flawless stainless. The horses cost over $200,000 apiece, and deserved deluxe stalls. That was all on the ground floor of the "barn", which had only a dozen bedrooms and maybe eight bathrooms above, lived in while the much bigger guest house and real house were being built. But the rich guy stiffed this particular worker when it came to paying him. He did quite well anyway, lived on a yacht with his girlfriend, collected all kinds or expensive things including top end Lecias and Hassies which he never used. He didn't pay his income taxes, figuring he could stave them off until he died, which proved true. All of that was seized by the State before the Feds could get to it, and auctioned off.

[Barry Kirsten]

Every bellows I've made I've glued the ribs with contact cement applied by brush, then spray contact cement for attaching the liner. Most information I've read about making bellows seems to recommend that process and I've never had a problem doing it that way. The health risks mentioned by Drew are worth keeping in mind.

[John Layton]

...and don't believe that "low VOC" necessarily equates to anything remotely close to "safe." Just sayin'!

[Drew Wiley]

I'd recommend Barge Cement (brush applied) if one weren't in a hurry, or just doing minor pleat repairs. But one has to be careful with the fumes and flammability of that too.

VOC rules are interesting. We have the strongest rules here on the West Coast; and being involved with industrial coatings sales for several decades (among other product categories), I'm especially aware of the back and forth. Low VOC is generally tied to smog reduction. To literally quote an Air Resources Board official I was in contact with (albeit himself speaking cynically):
"We don't give a damn if it kills people; that's EPA's responsibility. All we care about is smog". And indeed, certain products were de-smoggified by substituting health-hazardous solvents for atmospheric pollutants. Or on the EPA side, suspected carcinogens were replaced by known carcinogens. One needs to be wise with contact cements regardless, and assume that nitrile gloves and good ventilation need to be routinely used - and certainly no smoking!

The problem with "water-based" substitutes in my own experience is that they are less aggressive and often need to be applied thicker; and are also more sensitive to ambient humidity or cold during the work session. So bonding failures on edges tend to more common. When in doubt, experiment on scrap material first, and test it's bending qualities when fully dry, before undertaking any valuable project.

[John Layton]

...and do make sure that whatever ventilation system is used (while using contact cement) - does not create any obvious electrical arcs while operating!

[Rick A]

There are water based contact adhesives, Weldwood sells a decent water base adhesive, latex base, no smell and brushable. It works better if you can spray it and get a more even coat. I would still use a sprayable low VOC adhesive for such a small job, maybe do it outside or in the garage.