Hello,
I’ve just bought Durst Mivalo puncher. And I would like to use it with Durst 138s and color head 301. Could someone explain what do I need more to start masking? Now I use negative carrier Nega 138. I read somewhere that I need Durst Grahal C and Mivadap. Any suggestion, maybe photos of your puncher/pin/carrier set?
Thanks
Sylvester
That's a rare find indeed. There were a couple of pin register carrier options, with the original Grahal/Grane system being matched to all but the very latest 138's. I personally use Condit punches and frames, or else personally made registration gear, and have adapted the carrier system to that. You don't need a registered carrier for basic masking purposes. All of that can be done using a punch and matching pin glass in a registration frame, and then taping the result together in registration for use in the ordinary Nega 138 carrier. The punch is no good without a precisely matching pin glass, and since you won't likely find one, you'll need to learn how to make your own, or hire a machinist to do it. Registered carriers in the enlarger are for sake of serial registered tricolor printing applications like dye transfer, or even making chromogenic RA4 prints via sequential registered RGB black and white separation negatives. Masking is actually a complex tool kit in its own right, capable of doing many things. So the details are relative to what you have in mind, whether masking black and white originals for sake of printing, or masking specific types of color work. The topic can be quite complex, but all the versions share basic technique in terms of learning how to use the same punch and register gear. I can't elaborate more at the moment.
Thank you, Drew! I just want to use it for "simple" B&W masking. One of my ideas was to make a small 3D one side frame with small register pins. And cut one side of the upper glass which can match the 3D print frame. But this is just an idea.
You either need a way to precisely adjust the pins to the punch spacing or visa versa, with everything involved being dimensionally stable. Even the final tape should be mylar rather than acetate for sake of stability. Register strips for sake of smaller film sizes can be cut from large enough left over polyester (Estar) based sheet film. Thin transluscent mylar, frosted both sides, is used for the diffusion sheeting. The tricky part will be the pin registration contact frame glass. Since thick drillable anti-Newton glass is no longer made, you'll need to figure out a workaround using less thick AN glass. I can provide clues when you get closer to that point. Precision stainless pins can be acquired from McMaster. Everything needs to be matched within .002 inch of spacing tolerance or less, but there is even a simplified way to do that.
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