Develop -N2

[PatrickMarq]

I found local a beautiful scene, a pound in the forest with a old rusty metal boat.
It’s quite dark, but with a lot of licht spots of the sun.

The first time I took an image of this the highlights where complete blown-out, the scene has to mutch contrast. I came back several times when there was less sun, whiteout the light spots it’s not the same.

I don’t want to do bracketing. But I’m going to try it with development-N2 this should save the highlights.
I have never done this, so pointers how to do this would be fine.

The film, Ilford Delta 100 developed in DD-X

Thx
Patrick

[Peter De Smidt]

I would use divided Pyrocat instead.

[PatrickMarq]

Peter, My store does not sell Pyrocat.
The time for Dd-x is 10:30 in a 1:4 dilution. so with -N2 I was thinking: around 7min ? Or less

[ic-racer]

the highlights where complete blown-out, the scene has to mutch contrast.

Even with 00? I have never both flashed and used 00 but you could try that if it is an image you can't re-photograph. You might try reducing the negative too.

[Jim Noel]

I would use D-23. The chemicals (2) are easy to obtain and develop. It is by design a soft working developer and easy to control.

[Ulophot]

I would guess your 7 minutes may be close enough, though I would probably tend toward an extra half-minute and handle the added highlight density with print flashing, as mentioned above. I have not used DDX, so I can't comment on it directly. Success, as perhaps you already know, will depend in part on the nature of the luminance range in the scene and the exposure of the negative. If important shadow detail fell on Zone III, you will almost certainly get a negative in which these values are rendered with at least a stop less density, significantly reducing detail and making it tricky to revive in the print.

Regarding D-23, which I use exclusively, this is the case, both with 1:1 and the often recommended 1:3, which drops low values very significantly though it can yield a beautiful negative whe used appropriately. I had only limited success with low-value preservation in N- developments with so-called divided D-23; according to a number of sources, this worked much better with the "thick" emulsions made into the 1970s or so.

[Peter De Smidt]

Remember to give more exposure when minus developing.

[Doremus Scudder]

Remember to give more exposure when minus developing.

This is very important.

Since you have access to the scene anytime you like, you can use this as your test for N-2.

Here's how I'd go about it. Meter your shadow value and place that where you want it. Meter the important highlight to make sure it really falls two stops higher than you want it to (if not, then adjust your target development).

Now, give another stop more exposure than your meter reading. This is to compensate for the loss in film speed from reduced development. It might be a bit overexposed, or a slight bit under, but should be enough to get you close for the first exposure.

Make your exposure and develop your negative for your 7 minute time (that's where I would start as well). Develop, print, see what you get and make whatever changes you need for your next try, if any.

Another thing to try:

If you can set up to photograph your scene on a day when clouds are intermittently covering the sun, you can make a double exposure. Make one exposure without the sun for the shadow value exposure time. Make a second exposure when the sun is out placing the highlight value where you want it (e.g., Zone VIII). If water and leaves are moving around a lot, this may not work, but I've made some good exposures this way. Develop normally.

Have fun,

Doremus

[PatrickMarq]

Thank you all,
As the scene is about 6km from my home and this week there is sun and clouds I can go several times.
I had no idea of more exposure when minus development, your never to old to learn.
It will be a lot of km with my bike, and lot’s of film.
But it will be fun, and I’ll keep you informed and put up some images

[Peter De Smidt]

Good luck!