One question, 2 parts
Converting film DDS to Wet Plate
Is SS 304 or 316 wire good enough of do I need find somehow pure silver wire?
One question, 2 parts
Converting film DDS to Wet Plate
Is SS 304 or 316 wire good enough of do I need find somehow pure silver wire?
Tin Can
Historically, leaving a plate in overnight is the accepted method. At worst, it's harmless. I've noticed well-used silver baths behave nicer than brand new ones.
BTW, I've used a number of different collodion bottles, and here's what I settled on as my favorite, a 250ml pyrex media bottle with a wide mouth. The cap seals very well, so you can keep it in the fridge with no odor, (it will last maybe 2-3 times longer if kept cold when not being used). It's graduated, making mixing quick and easy, for Poor Boy, just 80ml raw collodion plus 100ml salted alcohol, shake and let set a couple of days. The literature says add the alcohol to the collodion, not the other way around, but I've done it both ways without issues.
Here's the bottle I mentioned:
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
Ordered Corning PYREX #1395-250, 250ml Round Media Storage Bottle, with GL45 Screw Cap (Pack of 2) and not the ones with bad caps, as described for a cheaper version.
Tin Can
Thanks for the suggestion, Mark. I'll try to find it.
I was looking for wide-mouth clear bottles online, but nothing reasonably-priced came up.
These are one candidate for collodion: https://www.amazon.com/Drinking-BPA-...2688712&sr=8-1
But the Pyrex is always a better choice, at least for safety.
Also, don't put collodion in plastic containers. The collodion seeps in and bonds with it. But it's not an issue with acrylic silver tanks, dippers, developing trays, etc. as the collodion sets up when it hits the silver bath. Maybe ten years ago I tried to mix a small batch of collodion in a plastic graduated cylinder and it clumped up on the walls. I threw the whole mess out. Now I just mix it in the pour bottle using pre-salted alcohol and collodion.
Oh, and those 16 oz. bottles Ari linked to are awfully large unless you're doing really large plates and going through a LOT of collodion. 180ml batches in the 250ml bottles is just right, as Goldilocks would say.
"I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."
I've come to like Erlenmeyer flasks for my collodion pour bottles: the way the spout is configured, you can get the lip as close to the plate as you like to pour, and that translates into greater control of the pour action. The downside is that the black rubber stoppers can be forced out of the flask mouth by vapor pressure, but to get around that problem, I use a strong rubber band stretched over the stopper and all the way round the bottom. (this only works with 250ml flasks and smaller) Its a bit of a compromise, but I find its worth it for the advantages the Erlenmeyer Flask offers. YMMV of course - everyone has a favorite pour bottle for their own reasons.
And what Mark said is important: DO NOT store Collodion in plastic bottles!
Ari, I'd be careful about storing Collodion in those jars you saw on Amazon. There's no telling what the Ether vapors will do to the plastic lids. Maybe they'd be fine - maybe not. The Pyrex media bottles are made to store chemistry. I use those for some chemicals also (namely my spare silver bath)
Double dark slide, or film holder.
Paul, you're right, I'm going to order the Pyrex bottles, maybe one larger (500 mL) as well for storage purposes.
I may have missed it or forgotten, but you've bought and you're referring to some guidebooks right?
Garrett
flickr galleries
I have/bought May 31 2020 Quinn, not watched any videos yet, there may be an issue there.
SS 316 18 gauge aka 1 mm is easier to get than 1 mm .999 Silver which is full soft usually...
Tin Can
Bookmarks