Collodion and Chemical Suppliers

[Tin Can]

Bad data removed

[Ari]

A question for the collodioni:

I came across this article by Alex Timmermans, comparing three different fixers: http://collodion-art.blogspot.com/20...ixer-test.html
He seems to like Amaloco X89 Extra Fix because it's got a higher concentration of Ammonium Thiosulfate ((NH₄)₂S₂0₃). It thus fixes faster and offers comparable results in tone and richness to KCN fixer.
Amaloco must only be available overseas, I've never heard of it.

I found Photographer's Formulary Ammonium Thiosulfate, 1 gallon for $22.00 at B&H.
I am never bringing cyanide anything into my home, so I thought it might be interesting to make my own fixer using higher concentrations of (NH₄)₂S₂0₃.

Do any of you do something similar? Is this worth looking into at some point (not right away)?
Eventually, I'd like to mix my own chemicals as much as possible, both to learn about the process more accurately and for the savings in bulk chemicals.

[drewf64]

A question for the collodioni:

I came across this article by Alex Timmermans, comparing three different fixers: http://collodion-art.blogspot.com/20...ixer-test.html
He seems to like Amaloco X89 Extra Fix because it's got a higher concentration of Ammonium Thiosulfate ((NH₄)₂S₂0₃). It thus fixes faster and offers comparable results in tone and richness to KCN fixer.
Amaloco must only be available overseas, I've never heard of it.

I found Photographer's Formulary Ammonium Thiosulfate, 1 gallon for $22.00 at B&H.
I am never bringing cyanide anything into my home, so I thought it might be interesting to make my own fixer using higher concentrations of (NH₄)₂S₂0₃.

Do any of you do something similar? Is this worth looking into at some point (not right away)?
Eventually, I'd like to mix my own chemicals as much as possible, both to learn about the process more accurately and for the savings in bulk chemicals.

I mix my own SODIUM THIOSULFATE fixer for film and collodion glass plate negatives.
Good alternative to using cyanide.

I use John Coffer's recipe = 200g Sodium Thiosulfate + 1000ml Distilled Water
Easy to mix. Saves money.

Lots of options out there .......

[Tin Can]

Another test

http://uvphotographics.com/blog/wet-...er-comparison/

I will use Rapid Fix as I have plenty and water is everywhere here

[paulbarden]

A question for the collodioni:

I came across this article by Alex Timmermans, comparing three different fixers: http://collodion-art.blogspot.com/20...ixer-test.html
He seems to like Amaloco X89 Extra Fix because it's got a higher concentration of Ammonium Thiosulfate ((NH₄)₂S₂0₃). It thus fixes faster and offers comparable results in tone and richness to KCN fixer.
Amaloco must only be available overseas, I've never heard of it.

I found Photographer's Formulary Ammonium Thiosulfate, 1 gallon for $22.00 at B&H.
I am never bringing cyanide anything into my home, so I thought it might be interesting to make my own fixer using higher concentrations of (NH₄)₂S₂0₃.

Do any of you do something similar? Is this worth looking into at some point (not right away)?
Eventually, I'd like to mix my own chemicals as much as possible, both to learn about the process more accurately and for the savings in bulk chemicals.

Ari, I think the emphasis placed on the effect of KCn as a fixer is exaggerated by some: the difference is subtle. I've found statements on the web that suggest Ammonium thiosulfate gives warmer values than Sodium thiosulfate, and I've also read the opposite. If you search long enough, you will find information on the web that supports any number of possible conclusions regarding the KCn VS thiosulfate fixer issue. Even Alex Timmerman states at the bottom of his article that the differences between the three fixers is barely visible once the plates are dry.

Personally, I have never tried KCn as a fixer, so I cannot tell you what differences there may be. I've avoided KCn not so much because its potentially very dangerous to handle, but because it is rapidly becoming a much more restricted chemical to acquire. Quinn has speculated that it won't be long before its simply not available to photographers. So I haven't used it, because I'd hate to develop a preference for it, only to find I cannot buy it anymore.

I suggest you take a look at these two articles - both having opposing opinions on the matter:

http://www.alternativephotography.co...lodion-plates/

http://collodionbastards.org/files/c...ythbusters.pdf

Personally, I have found there are MANY variables that affect the color and tonal range of a wet plate positive, including the choice of developer, how long the developing time, the age and condition of the collodion, which salts are in it, and the strength of the fixer, whether it be Ammonium or Sodium based. I've had some tintypes come out very bright, with detailed highlights, but quite cool in color. I've also had tintypes with relatively subdued highlights and very warm coloring. To some degree, I sense it is unpredictable and with all the factors combined, it may not be entirely in the photographers control.

Perhaps today - if light conditions settle into a stable pattern - I might do two identical plates and fix in each of the two fixers I use, and see what happens. I also have some Photographers Formulary alkaline fix (TF3, perhaps?) and see if that has an effect.

Currently, my fixer of choice is Sodium thiosulfate, in part because it is very cheap if you buy it in 5 or 10 pound lots. I get it off Amazon, sold as Cesco brand "pool and pond dechlorinator" and ten pounds costs $25 including delivery. Ten pounds goes a long way.

[goamules]

You can make the fixer as strong as you want (until saturation) with the sodium Thiosulfate. Some people use other fixers, but that's all I've ever used other than when working with someone else. Hypo works great. I tried the Ammonium type once. Hated the weird reddish tones. Pitched it.

I have a chemical supply house in Tucson that I get much of my chemistry from. They don't carry ether or collodion though.

[Ari]

Thanks all.

Paul, if you manage a test soon, I'd be very interested in the results.

Garrett, I've also read that silvery tones result from a more dilute solution of Ammonium fixer.

The red comes from strong dilutions, is that true?

[paulbarden]

Thanks all.

Paul, if you manage a test soon, I'd be very interested in the results.

Garrett, I've also read that silvery tones result from a more dilute solution of Ammonium fixer.

The red comes from strong dilutions, is that true?

Ari, I've done a set of three 4x5 test plates, each exposed and developed identically, but each is fixed in a different fixer. I used: Photographers Formulary TF4, Ilford Rapid Fix (Ammonium thiosulfate) and plain Sodium thiosulfate. Development was in a standard Iron sulfate developer (John Coffer recipe) for 15 seconds exactly, for each plate. The Collodion used was Quinn's Ammonium based collodion for positives.

Here's the Formulary TF4 plate:


And the Ilford Rapid Fix plate:


And finally the Sodium Thiosulfate fixed plate:


All three of these scans were treated identically to come as close as possible to representing the actual color of the plates (they were scanned in 24 bit color, minor tweaks were: 25 points magenta, and whites were increased by 30 points - just enough to craft a truer representation of how the plates look) Please excuse the bit oif lens flare evident in the Ilford plate: lighting changed a bit during that exposure, creating a bright spot outside the window.
Looking at the three side-by-side, I can barely tell the difference in their colors, but the Sodium thiosulfate-fixed plate has brighter highlights than the other two. (but its a tiny difference) The TF4 plate appears to be a bit warmer, but in reality, that difference is very difficult to see in daylight. If anything, the sodium thiosulfate plate appears a wee bit warmer (and yellower) in daylight. If I had KCn to use as a fix to compare, maybe I'd see more significant differences relative to the other fixers, but I suspect the differences would still be minimal.
Your choice of developer and collodion is likely to have even more impact on plate color and highlight values, so you may want to perform this test yourself. Personally, I see no reason to choose one fixer over another. I suggest: use what's available and economical.

[Willie]

"I know of Artcraft Chemicals (owned by Q. Jacobson's brother) "

My Uncle talked to Quinn and nope, not his brother. Quinn does buy some of his chemistry from him.

[Ari]

Thanks, Paul, appreciate this very much.
From my screen, it looks like the TF-4 kept the highlights better than the other two, but perhaps there are other factors causing that difference.
I have an unopened bottle of TF-5 which I was also going to try eventually, once I used up my Ilford Rapid. Good to know it's also a viable option.
I'm going to be using B&S pre-mixed chemicals until I can sort out bulk purchases.

Willie, I had always thought they were brothers. Don't know where I got it from, maybe another forum a few years back.