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Thread: Hypo clear?

  1. #11
    Kirk Gittings's Avatar
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    Re: Hypo clear?

    You can simply use Sodium Sulfite as a one shot wash aid-a heaping teaspoon per quart of water.
    Thanks,
    Kirk

    at age 70:
    "The woods are lovely, dark and deep,
    But I have promises to keep,
    And miles to go before I sleep,
    And miles to go before I sleep"

  2. #12
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Hypo clear?

    I use TF4 archival fixer instead. More expensive, but saves a lot of time and fuss. No need for a wash aid.

  3. #13

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    Thank you all, gents
    A good picture requires taking risks

  4. #14

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    Kirk plse clarify: one teaspoonful or one tablespoonful per quart of water? I think you meant to write tablespoonful.

  5. #15

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    I ordered one kilo of Sodium Sulfite for one shot use.
    I think it's a teaspoon (around 20gr) for one liter of water for film use, isn't it?
    A good picture requires taking risks

  6. #16

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    I remember it as 40gm/1 ltr...

    Steve K

  7. #17

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    Quote Originally Posted by LabRat View Post
    I remember it as 40gm/1 ltr...

    Steve K
    Most of the formulas I've collected weigh in at about 20g sodium sulfite per liter of working solution wash aid.

    My spoon recipe calls for one level Tablespoon of sulfite per liter, which weighs in at 22.8g give or take. I add a pinch of bisulfite/metabisulfite too.

    For those with hard water, other ingredients might be needed: EDTA Terasodium Salt or sodium hexametaphosphate for hardness and citric acid to adjust pH/buffer.

    Kirk's "heaping teaspoon," depending on how "heaping" it is, may come close to 20g/l...

    Best,

    Doremus

  8. #18

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Duolab123 View Post
    I use Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent routinely after Kodak Rapid Fixer when developing Tmax and similar films to help to remove the last bit of the purple dye used in these and similar films.
    For fiber base paper it's part of my routine.

    Ilford has great website based instructions on how to use their materials. Fixer protocol has changed dramatically from the "old days"

    Ilford has just introduced a new 5th generation multigrade RC paper. If it's been a while you may want to go directly to the source Ilford Photo, look at the instructions. RC paper is quite good today, so easy and fast. And you don't need to fool with hypo clearing agent with RC.
    Having listened to many Older Photographers who are excellent printers I wonder if anyone doing "fine work" is using RC Papers? I know Clyde Butcher got bit from using them years ago and a number of others who were using them had to change. Labs that were printing with the papers went under rather than have to reprint many of the images that started developing problems.

    Does anyone know of a major "fine work" printer who uses RC papers today?
    "My forumla for successful printing remains ordinary chemicals, an ordinary enlarger, music, a bottle of scotch - and stubbornness." W. Eugene Smith

  9. #19

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    How does Perma Wash compare to Kodak HCA? Is it basically the same stuff?

    One nice thing about Perma Wash, is that it's a liquid concentrate. So, it's easy to mix as needed.

    What's the shelf life of HCA Stock Solution, mixed directly from the package before diluting it with water for a working solution?

  10. #20

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    Re: Hypo clear?

    Quote Originally Posted by neil poulsen View Post
    How does Perma Wash compare to Kodak HCA? Is it basically the same stuff?

    One nice thing about Perma Wash, is that it's a liquid concentrate. So, it's easy to mix as needed.

    What's the shelf life of HCA Stock Solution, mixed directly from the package before diluting it with water for a working solution?
    Neil,

    According to the label on Kodak's Hypo Clearing Agent, the stock solution lasts three months in a tightly-stoppered bottle (working solution life is 24 hours in a tray).

    As for Perma Wash... I've always been a bit skeptical, but have never tested it. According to a scan of the label I have, it contains ammonium sulfite and sodium sulfite. The MDSD only lists the ingredients as "trade secret" and has such warnings as "use only outdoors or in a well-ventilated area." However, it does give the amount of dissolved chemicals as 33.886%.

    So, let's do a little math. Instructions say to mix 3 oz. of Perma Wash with a gallon of water. Assuming a v/v percentage in the MSDS, that makes 1.01658 oz. of "active ingredient" per gallon. Converting to g/L we get approx. 7.6133 grams of whatever mix of ammonium and sodium sulfite is in Perma Wash per liter of working solution.

    That's nowhere near Kodak's 20 (or a bit more) g/L of sodium sulfite. Unless ammonium sulfite is much, much more efficient than just plain sodium sulfite, the solution seems pretty weak to me. If I were to have to use Perma Wash, I'd certainly do a residual hypo test to find the limits of washing just to be sure. I've done that with my sodium-sulfite-based wash aid.

    Best,

    Doremus

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