Custom Sink - How to get the drain "in sump"?

[Neal Chaves]

My father and I built these sinks in 1986. They are 1/4" Luan covered with fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. The bottom pitches slightly down towards the drain end. When the pilot hole for the drain was drilled, four 12" cuts were made in the bottom radiating from the hole. Then these areas around the drain were pulled down with screws onto a frame member about 1" below the bottom. The cuts were filled with body putty and after the sink was glassed, the hole was sized for the drain. These sinks drain dry every time.

[Duolab123]

I've got a fancy Arkay 10 foot SS sink I had given to me. It has a slight, very slight v shaped depression running the length of the bottom along the back. The depression is barely visible. Maybe 1/8-3/16th inch deep. You could probably, pretty easily make such a channel in the plywood with a belt sander. You would want to be gentle, light touch.
No matter what kind of a sink, SS, Fiberglass, ABS, I still use a squeegee at the last to keep it from spotting. Plywood sinks are great done right, quiet, insulated, modern coatings are bullet proof. Use pro grade plumbing for a lab sink, especially the drain.

[Duolab123]

My father and I built these sinks in 1986. They are 1/4" Luan covered with fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. The bottom pitches slightly down towards the drain end. When the pilot hole for the drain was drilled, four 12" cuts were made in the bottom radiating from the hole. Then these areas around the drain were pulled down with screws onto a frame member about 1" below the bottom. The cuts were filled with body putty and after the sink was glassed, the hole was sized for the drain. These sinks drain dry every time.

That's beautiful, wood sinks done right are the best there is.

[Chuck S.]

Easiest solution without having to "bake in" a tilt towards a corner drain while designing & building the sink would be use 4 t-nuts & leveling bolts in the four corners (whether legs or cabinet base). Build it square & level, then bolt at drain corner can be made shorter, opposite corner longer, and remaining 2 adjusted to eliminate any wobble. Drain speed adjustable. What I used for 2 sinks; worked just fine. This is the simplest kind, but Google "t nut & leveling bolt" - there are a lot of fancier variants. Also very useful if floor is at all uneven!

[MrFujicaman]

I've got a fancy Arkay 10 foot SS sink I had given to me. It has a slight, very slight v shaped depression running the length of the bottom along the back. The depression is barely visible. Maybe 1/8-3/16th inch deep. You could probably, pretty easily make such a channel in the plywood with a belt sander. You would want to be gentle, light touch.
No matter what kind of a sink, SS, Fiberglass, ABS, I still use a squeegee at the last to keep it from spotting. Plywood sinks are great done right, quiet, insulated, modern coatings are bullet proof. Use pro grade plumbing for a lab sink, especially the drain.

Duolab, I'd think a router would a better tool for that job. Much more precise.

[Doremus Scudder]

I'd be very interested in seeing your plans. Thank you for that kind offer.

PM sent.