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Thread: Misadventures in Jobo-land

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    Scyg's Avatar
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    Misadventures in Jobo-land

    I need advice with film developing, and please don't make the answer "get an expert tank" - that doesn't even come near my budget at this point). I have a drum consisting of a 2830 bottom and 2870 top, a kosher combination for eight 5x7s as far as Jobo is concerned, in a CPA2 without a lift. I'm getting weird staining on the negatives:

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    I first thought this was due to low chemical levels in the tank during development, particularly of fixer. Jobo calls for 200ml minimum chemistry volume during development, and I was using 12fl oz (354ml) of HC-110 dil B and 300ml of rapid fixer, so at no point less than 50% more than the minimum. I verified that the film was loaded correctly, emulsion side towards the center. I later tried re-fixing the negs, but the stains did not budge.

    Previously I got the same artifacts in the Jobo, but got clean negs when I tray processed the same film stock (TMax 100) in the same soups.

    I know that others have processed sheet film in 2800 series drums with no ill effects. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Since I use Expert Drums, I cannot provide any help as far as use of a 2800 series tank. However, your chemistry volume seems quite low to me. If you adhere to the 6ml HC-110 concentrate as an acceptable minimum per 80 sq in of film, then you'd need approx 672ml of working developer for 8 sheets of 5x7; assuming I did the math right, but you get the idea.

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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    I agree with Alan as far as quantities are concerned,but I can't explain those large blotches. Have the tubes been used for other processes? Have they ever contained Kodak Photo-Flo?
    In either case,they need a good washing with hot water. Photo-Flo will adhere to the plastic and cause over development in areas where prevalent.

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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    You're probably right. Having done tray and open tank processing in the past, I never thought of the actual chemistry capacity, since I never even came close to the limits before. Scanning direct from negs also hides a lot of ugliness. I'll have to check my numbers. Thanks for the heads-up.
    FWIW, the solution seems to be to use slower rotation speeds so the chemistry can penetrate to the back of the film before it gets whisked out of the soup again. Also, while re-fixing the negatives does nothing, it turns out the anti-halation dye clears up nicely when treated with developer. So at least I have a solution, even if it's still a sub-optimal one.

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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Quote Originally Posted by Scyg View Post
    I need advice with film developing, and please don't make the answer "get an expert tank" - that doesn't even come near my budget at this point). I have a drum consisting of a 2830 bottom and 2870 top, a kosher combination for eight 5x7s as far as Jobo is concerned...
    "Kosher" for prints, not film.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scyg View Post
    ...I'm getting weird staining on the negatives...Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
    Sorry to ignore your request, but the only JOBO drums deemed "kosher" for 5x7 film are the 3005 and 3006 Expert versions. Save your pennies, or embrace the artifacts. Reality sucks, but it's real.

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    Gary Beasley's Avatar
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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Hypo clearing agent is pretty good at removing antihalation dyes too. Since its sulfite your developer probably has that in it too as an antioxidant, halide solvent and/or alkali component.

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    Roger Thoms's Avatar
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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    I've had something similar and was able to remove it by letting the film soak in a tray of water for 15 or 20 minutes. Looks like remnants of the anti-halation coating where the film contact the drum.

    Roger

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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Definitely looks like antihalation dye. Just wash those negatives again (in a tray) and the stains will likely be gone.

    Ive done 5x7 film in jobo paper drums as well and it works - at least with regular film. Xray film didn't go so well; it's more prone to uneven development.

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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Quote Originally Posted by Sal Santamaura View Post
    "Kosher" for prints, not film.

    Sorry to ignore your request, but the only JOBO drums deemed "kosher" for 5x7 film are the 3005 and 3006 Expert versions. Save your pennies, or embrace the artifacts. Reality sucks, but it's real.
    Yes, I know the right-tools-for-the-right-job bit, and whenever possible I try to stick to it. Unfortunately, right now is not whenever. Normally I'd stick to tray development, but I wanted to try color at some point in the future, and I'm not putting my fingers in that - gloves or no gloves. Also, I know people have successfully used 2800s for film developing, and if they can, I should be able to also. I'm pretty good at making things work despite constraints, even if it takes a bit of trial and error to get things right.

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    Re: Misadventures in Jobo-land

    Quote Originally Posted by koraks View Post
    Just wash those negatives again (in a tray) and the stains will likely be gone.
    I tried fixing and washing to no effect. What really helped was developer, or as Gary noted above, the sodium sulfate in it. All of the stain is gone now. Definitely a workaround in case it happens again, though I'm still hoping to figure out a method of avoiding the problem in the first place.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan9940 View Post
    If you adhere to the 6ml HC-110 concentrate as an acceptable minimum per 80 sq in of film, then you'd need approx 672ml of working developer for 8 sheets of 5x7; assuming I did the math right, but you get the idea.
    The Kodak data sheet for HC-110 gives tank capacities of 20 8x10x per gallon of B solution. That works out to 12.5 sq in per fl oz, and at 280 sq in for eight 5x7s gives me 22.4 fl oz minimum or 662ml - pretty close to what you got (I am once again confirmed in my hatred for the imperial system!). So you were right, I was using it over its capacity. This means I need to either switch to a smaller drum combination or figure out how to fit 24 fl oz of chemicals into a 12 oz lid cup

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