Restoring my "new" Agfa Ansco 8x10.

[LabRat]

Yeah! Make a whole set of boards in 2 degree increments!

For outdoor photography, after a day in the field using these, build a bonfire and toss them in with giggling glee... ;-)

There's a saying it amateur telescope making; "If in doubt, put a knob on it", meaning instead of it being fixed, allow for adjustments, and a locking knob to hold it in place... This can just be a hinged lensboard that can tilt, a locking knob to control that tilt, and a way to light proof the open area (if needed)... And there's simple or fancy, you choose...

Steve K

[Scyg]

This what I got for free and glad of it, as it gave me a design start to my version, which is in deep storage.

Ok, thanks. Seems like a rigid version of a piece I'd seen elsewhere, with a pivot and a teensy little bellows. Something similar was apparently originally sold with the Kodak 2D. I think my design can do this without the protrusion, if I can make it work properly.



(I just noticed this is Peter De Smidt's photobucket!)

Yeah! Make a whole set of boards in 2 degree increments!

Thanks, but no thanks.

A craftsman gave me advice about warped hardwood years ago saying that before it is refinished, one can clamp the warped piece to a metal form and apply heat carefully a few times and letting it sit still jigged up for days before releasing...

Wish I had thought about this before I applied the finishes. I don't really want to do that again, so I'll just have to use shims in a couple of strategic places. One place I might be able to get away with bending a tab on a brass piece. All in all shouldn't be too visible.

[mdarnton]

That's the device I couldn't find online! Yes.

[Scyg]

I PM'd Peter. He told me he rarely used the tilt adapter, as the landscapes he shot with the camera didn't really require more than the front shifts and rear tilts and swings it already had. In that light I think I'll put this part of the project on hold and see how much I miss having the front movements in practice. I can always fabricate the adapter at a later stage, and now have a functioning camera earlier rather than later. Since the bellows adaptation won't take any more work than getting it fitted to the front standard anyway, I'll still go ahead with that.

[Tin Can]

The forward tilt was made for shooting groups of people, which I do

I would prefer to have a 7X17 Banquet camera over the normal 7X17 Korona I bought

Live and learn

[LabRat]

Forward tilt was also used for "sitting" portraits to get crossed hands on lap also in focus, or women in dresses in good focus...

Steve K

[Tin Can]

Going to try this on a warped 11X14 plate holder. I already tried damp warm towels with over correcting clamps

A craftsman gave me advice about warped hardwood years ago saying that before it is refinished, one can clamp the warped piece to a metal form and apply heat carefully a few times and letting it sit still jigged up for days before releasing... Heat can be from indirect blasts from heat gun, quartz lamp, or even leaving in the hot summer sun for a few days... Beware to not burn wood finishes (best done raw wood), and glued joints will come apart, but the heating will soften the resin in the woods and allow them to straighten when jigged and long reset...

I was given an old early Ries small model C tripod with a deformed leg, so clamped this to a heavy aluminum form and applied heat from a moving quartz photo light for about 20 minutes... Strange how you can feel the heat bounce around in the wood, but the next day released it from the form, and it was nearly perfect!!!

YMMV

Steve K

[ic-racer]

If the back has swing and tilt, no reason to have it on the front standard. What is the reason?

[Scyg]

If the back has swing and tilt, no reason to have it on the front standard. What is the reason?

Convenience, that's all. But as I said, after my exchange with Peter I've decided to put that part of it on hold.

[ic-racer]

This is a great project, I like seeing these old cameras come back to life.