Shooting Ilford Delta and developed as iso 400

[Huub]

So it seems I have to wait until my HP5 plus 400 arrives.
Getting quite frustrated over here. Missing a lens, wrong bellow lengths, wrong film....

I’m used to shoot landscapes and architecture and now when confined at home, I’m out of my conform zone.

When using wet plates and such with speeds like 6 iso and slower, it is still possible do make good portraits, even inside. When the model can be placed in a position where he or she can sit comfortably and movemnets can be kept at bay, speeds as long as a 1/4 of sec ain't that much of an issue. Use the fastest lens you have and see what you can do wide open with the camera on a tripod. Also think about using flash lights or a strong lamp, or try to place the model near a large window, using a reflector at the other side. And when you don't have a reflector: cardboard covered with alufoil are a good home build substitution.

[Jimi]

I’m used to shoot landscapes and architecture and now when confined at home, I’m out of my conform zone.

Build a model house or other structure out of cardboard or something ... look up Frank Kunert, although he is a good bit past the cardboard stage, I think.

[Bill Burk]

Indeed. Unless the lighting is very flat, the portrait would come out quite harsh due to losing at least two entire zones of shadow gradation to sheer blackness. I state, "at least" two zones because I don't regard Delta 100 as even a true 100 speed film for crisp shadow separation, but more like half that speed.

Wait! You're onto something there Drew Wiley.

Studio Lighting can be controlled. With a specific flat lighting ratio maybe 10 to 1 (or about 4 stops difference between darkest and lightest), portraiture could be successful by developing to gamma infinity (a phrase not really infinity but where the film just doesn't seem to develop any further) about 45 minutes in straight ID-11.

So there you have it. Super flat lighting. Nothing more than 4 stops difference in any reading in the scene that you want to see in the print.

Set your spotmeter at 400. Meter a subject's face. Don't "Place on Zone VI" just use that meter reading directly. The extended development will bring up the density of the metered spot near where Zone VI would have been with a 400 speed film exposed properly.

[Bill Burk]

p.s. If you get great results thank William Mortensen. That's what he'd do.

[MAubrey]

You can't "compensate" into existence what isn't even on the film to begin with! Compensation might or might not rein in the highlights. It won't do a darn thing for gross underexposure except muddy up what's left of the upper tones.

Thanks for stating the obvious in a condescending manner. It's the whole reason that I come to this forum.

Diafine creates a certain look. It isn't a good choice, but its a better choice than just trying pushing the film with a normal developer and letting contrast run wild.