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Thread: Rodinol to D 23

  1. #21

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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    Relative to shelf life, I have wandered away from mixing my own and come back several times, so I have used both metol and sodium sulfite that are pushing 30 years old, no problem. With water, I *believe* consistency is more important than purity. . .at least that has been my experience when moving from place to place. I have always used the local tap water.

    I might mention that I I use D23 for xray diluted 1:7, and it does not go bad in a sealed tank, however it doesn't do a lot of sheets at that dilution so I usually mix fresh for that reason. You can buy sulfite in 20 pound lots dirt cheap.
    Thanks, but I'd rather just watch:
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  2. #22

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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    Quote Originally Posted by HMG View Post
    Ken Lee's page describes D-23 as slower acting than D-76 due to the lack of Hyrdoquinone. But then says "Developing times for D-23 are similar to those of D-76". Is this an inconsistency or am I not giving enough weight to "similar"?
    An excellent observation - I have removed that ambiguity. I now simply share Stephen Anchell's discussion of D-23 which includes the topic of Superadditivity.

    I am not a champion of D-23. I'm just a user who shares information: some quotes and a link to The Darkroom Cookbook. Readers can always investigate further if they are interested.

    Some might find it interesting to read a thread on Photrio which discusses the close similarity between D-23, Microdol-X and Perceptol. See https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/kodak-d-23-developer.28994/

    Apparently a dash of salt is the only difference. Of course, with Chemistry only a dash of this or that can make a huge difference: does that dash of salt provide better storage life ? sharpness ? acutance ? tonality ? Or does it merely change the formula for the purposes of intellectual property ? Who can say

  3. #23
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    HGM I have a filter like that that is only for a REAL emergency...

    Michael, I bought 1 lb of Metol with 5 lb SS, more will be obtained in bulk

    Ken Lee allows for self determinable variables, I really admire his website tutorials and images

    Supply and delivery of anything may break down soon

    I was a CUB, BOY and EXPLORER Scout. The last leader had no children, was very wealthy and took us on all kinds of adventures. He was even the wrong religion...Great man, I remember him well.

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    Last edited by Tin Can; 1-Apr-2020 at 09:57. Reason: add Be Prepared change truth to amount
    Tin Can

  4. #24

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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    Over the years I have used Promicrol, Rodinal, HC110 and for the last 15 years D23. With D23 you have control, you know what you get. No changes of availability, manufacturer, bottle size, formula etc.
    It's not as sharp as for instance HC110 but that is fine with me, the modern lenses I use are sharp enough, no need for steel wool character of the image. Film speed a bit better that Rodinal.
    One can use a scale (which I do) or scoop formula. For consistency use of distilled water makes sense.
    I mix a gallon (4 liters), divide in liter and/or 125ml bottles. Top up with distilled water, cover bottle opening with saran wrap, then cap. Discard after 6 months, thereafter is on your own risk (but pretty safe)
    With a new developer (or film) batch I add a zone 1 and a zone 8 exposure to the batch I'm working on, for quality control, fine tuning.

    I dilute 1:1, dev. time at 24C around 8.5 minutes in manual inversion tank. No personal experience with tabular grain film.

  5. #25
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    Hans, good advice

    I have scales and will check scoops until I know

    Thank you
    Tin Can

  6. #26

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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    And since you now have Metol you can also look at making Pyrocat M for a staining developer.
    The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
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  7. #27

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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    Hans, I like your "steel wool character" -- excellent metaphor, at least for this portraitist, for whom ultimate sharpness is not a matter of concern.
    Philip Ulanowsky

    Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
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  8. #28

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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    If you'r thinking you need to waterbath. D23 might do the job. Great for high contrast shots. Reduces burn in the top end.

  9. #29
    Joe O'Hara's Avatar
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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    Quote Originally Posted by mdarnton View Post
    [snip]

    I might mention that I I use D23 for xray diluted 1:7, and it does not go bad in a sealed tank, however it doesn't do a lot of sheets at that dilution so I usually mix fresh for that reason. You can buy sulfite in 20 pound lots dirt cheap.
    Good to know. Who sells it 20 pounds at a time?

    BTW for very high contrast situations, I dilute stock D-23 1:3 with water (using 100 ml of stock for one sheet of 4x5) and develop it in a tray with limited agitation. I find it works quite well at controlling the highlights, but it needs about another stop of exposure compared to normal or plus development in the Jobo tank.
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  10. #30

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    Re: Rodinol to D 23

    Curious about the "keeps" bit.

    Most of what I've read is about D23 has been using it one-shot and mixing at time-of-use. I've been doing that with Caffenol and thinking maybe D-23 might not be all that much more toxic (use gloves, mask, etc. when mixing...duh) and perhaps less irregularly dependent on the coffee bagger's access to particular beans from one batch to another, and if D23 kept and would NOT NEED to be mixed each time from scratch, that would sure be handy. Caffenol I've mixed the ingredients in higher concentration and kept each of them in their own separate containers and it's worked fine, saving some trouble and time in leaving the prep to only a final mix-for-use. Not too bothersome. But to go from scratch.... each time is a bit of a pain. So that's kind of kept me from diving into D23.

    Finding Jim Noel's suggestion that D-23 can be made up in stock is good news to me, and just might be the push I need. Never used the stuff, but admired many of the photos and even bought the Formulary kit to give it a shot. And what I admire most are the beautiful midtones. Ken Lee... this means your site is wonderfully full of both everyday and exceptional photos, and I'm sure others conform to this, too. I'm very much an everyday photo kind of guy... the beauty next door type of thing (helps to pick what's next door btw).

    So if I may follow on for a bit more detail for those mixing stock and keeping it, do you keep it MIXED as a solution, or are you keeping it separate concentrates and mixing to final use when you're planning a developing session? I realize this is a small difference, but experience with this approach (with Caffenol) used with chems that don't generally keep has been very positive. So I'm just wondering.... 'cause it sure would be nice to have the convenience in mix-it-yourself that I used to enjoy with mega liters of ID11, XTOL and all the rest.

    My thanks in advance. Gray day here... may call for working some D23 in the basement!
    Last edited by roscoetuff-Skip Mersereau; 25-Apr-2020 at 06:24. Reason: formatting looked odd

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