New Intrepid "Black" Edition 4x5 Camera - No Plywood! Also...

[Max Grew]

Shot 4 sheets of film this afternoon in my backyard. Used 90mm and 150mm lenses, and I used the camera without regard to any possible manufacturing issues - in other words, I didn't cover the camera with a darkcloth, I took out the darkslide on a couple of shots and let the film sit out in the open for a little bit to check for light-leaks, and I shot a macro image at almost 1:1 with an exposure of 1 min. 45 sec.

I observed zero issues with my negatives using plain ol' Fidelity plastic holders, well known to be in "good" condition. I double-checked all of the camera parts and screws and noted nothing missing or any problems whatsoever.

I had a couple slight issues with the Intrepid, as compared to other cameras I've used, but these are nitpicky things:

1.
The 3D-printed focus rail and front standard are made of a somewhat "slippery" material. While setting up one of the shots, I noticed that after cocking the shutter the front standard had twisted a couple of degrees. I am wary of cranking down the screw any more than necessary, lest it break. Perhaps a very thin sheet of flocking paper or something of that nature could be glued to the bottom of the front standard to give it a bit more "grip" to prevent this.

2.
I setup one shot with a tree in the frame, and used that tree to check for parallelism of the standards. I first set both standards to 90 degrees, according to the levels. Then I checked focus, and found the top of the tree was slightly out of focus while the lower part was in focus. A very slight incline to the front standard solved that. Therefore, it seems that the levels are not accurate between the two standards. Now this is not exactly uncommon...but it's especially annoying with there not being any "neutral" stops or indents on the camera.

3.
I said this yesterday but to reiterate the focus feels horrible. Super coarse and sometimes binds up. I will probably try a couple dabs of machine oil and see how it works. On the other hand, I don't want it too loosey-goosey, where the focus slips when the camera is aimed straight down (this is actually an issue I've had on the Chamonix).

4.
Finally, I would say the ground glass on the camera is pretty meh. It didn't snap into focus nicely like most of the other cameras I've used. I imagine that's just how it is when using a camera at this price-point, and certainly it is something I could rectify with a 3rd-party ground glass. It was also definitely not the brightest glass out there. This is pretty nitpicky for a ~$350 camera.

Overall I am more than happy with the camera thus far after actually using it. I hope this is indicative of their current camera offerings, be they this 3D-printed model or the normal plywood version.

Here's the macro photo I shot, taken with my 150mm f/9 G-Claron at close to 1:1, on T-Max 100 dev'd in Rodinal, N+1:

Sorry your focus feels a little rough, it shouldn't do. Probably just need a few dabs of a light oil, WD40 or similar. put one on the rod itself and one between the retaining ring and the black plastic mount at the back of the base.

Glad you are enjoying the camera!

Cheers, Max

[Corran]

Thanks for the suggestion Max!

[Kiwi7475]

Sorry your focus feels a little rough, it shouldn't do. Probably just need a few dabs of a light oil, WD40 or similar. put one on the rod itself and one between the retaining ring and the black plastic mount at the back of the base.

Glad you are enjoying the camera!

Cheers, Max

WD40 is a poor lubricant (ok, “moderately good” lubricant perhaps it’s more exact). I’d use instead a “real good” lubricant.

[Corran]

I have generic sewing machine oil here which is what I usually use for lubricating mechanical parts. I just put a couple drops on the rod and screwed the focus all the way out and in a couple of times, and one drop on the rear plastic mounting point, and now everything is much smoother and easier to focus.

The back plastic mounting piece though does seem to be ever so slightly out of round or have a burr on it somewhere. Every 360 degrees, there is a point that the focus binds slightly. This is extremely nitpicky though. It may just be the small bolt that holds it on (or adjusts focus tension?).

I don't use WD-40 for anything except fixing squeaks in simple moving parts, like door hinges.

[paulbarden]

I would consider Helimax XP lubricant: its made for focusing helicals and other fine instruments. I use it when restoring Kodak Retinas, and it does a superb job. An oil has the potential to migrate places you don't want it, but a grease like Helimax XP is made to stay where its put. Its $12 on Amazon, for a 1 oz. jar.

[grat]

WD40 is a poor lubricant (ok, “moderately good” lubricant perhaps it’s more exact). I’d use instead a “real good” lubricant.

No, go with your first statement. WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's a water displacement formula (the 40th one, if I recall), and while it may give the illusion of lubrication in the short term, in the long term, it is nigh useless.

Highly suitable for cleaning or for unsticking stuck things, but not a lubricant.

... something my father drilled into my head at a relatively young age.

[Bob Salomon]

No, go with your first statement. WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's a water displacement formula (the 40th one, if I recall), and while it may give the illusion of lubrication in the short term, in the long term, it is nigh useless.

Highly suitable for cleaning or for unsticking stuck things, but not a lubricant.

... something my father drilled into my head at a relatively young age.

According to WD40 it leaves behind a parrifin wax layer.

[seall]

After using WD40 it for many years I have only ever used it as a penetrating fluid, in some places they call it "loose-all" due to it being able to loosen almost anything.

Before using it I would read up on it, there are some caveats.

If you like the smell of petrol you will probably like the smell of wd40.

https://autosneed.com/best-penetrating-oil/

[CatSplat]

No, go with your first statement. WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's a water displacement formula (the 40th one, if I recall), and while it may give the illusion of lubrication in the short term, in the long term, it is nigh useless.

Highly suitable for cleaning or for unsticking stuck things, but not a lubricant.

... something my father drilled into my head at a relatively young age.

WD-40 is a light paraffin-based oil suspended in solvent (among other things). The whole point of WD-40 was for the solvent to displace water and other contaminants, and evaporate leaving the light oil behind. So yes, it does have a lubricating component and is suitable where light oil is called for. In cases where light oil is not the correct lubricant, you use can WD-40 first for cleaning and follow up with the prescribed one.

[Exploring Large Format]

Corran: thanks for your thorough review and video. I have the MK4, but not the black version. It is my first ever LF camera, so for me it was more about getting accustomed to the format than the finer distinctions. Too new. Still, I found it to be a great introduction. No big issues. Max and crew are very communicative.

It did take longer than promised for delivery, but that wasn't a big deal to me. The light weight is amazing. It's new, with customer support. I dig it.

Hearing Max on the Large Format Photography Podcast, it's clear they are both bringing out new products AND substantially upping production. Demand is high. A great thing!

I also bought their 4x5 enlarger kit. About to make my first print. Rumors of an 8x10 enlarger kit coming.

For me, it was a just right introduction, probably because my expectations were aligned with what they are doing.

Once I get my SINAR Norma assembled, will I be dissatisfied with the Intrepid? Don't think so, as they are different animals. We'll see.


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