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Thread: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

  1. #1

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    Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    Still lamenting the loss of APX100 (and Plus-X), I note that Arista EDU Ultra 100 (i.e. Fomapan 100) is a traditional cubic grain film with decent silver content and a somewhat similar curve. I've shot a few boxes of 4x5 and it's not bad.

    Reading some online reviews, it seems the 200 ISO is some sort of hybrid t-grain/cubic grain that many people really like. I'm not a huge fan of T-Max, but understand very well why people like it. It's just not my thing. Maybe the hybrid approach is a good way to integrate the strengths of both approaches to making film.

    I plan on buying a few boxes of 100 and 200 to compare, but wanted to hear if anyone here had done the same thing, and what you found.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    Arista 200 is Fomapan 200. It's nowhere near true 200 speed (more like 100) and has horrible long-exposure characteristics, but does have an exceptionally long straight line capable of handling extreme contrast scene. Develops exceptionally fast. Quality control is disappointing, so expect a few flawed sheets. An interesting film worth trying, but with very little in common with T-grain films. For one thing, you can't plus develop it much. Nor is it similar to EDU/Foma 100. Rather, it's a unique bird at this point in time. It was marketed as a replacement for Super-XX, but it's nowhere near as versatile; it is finer-grained than old Super-XX.

  3. #3

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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    I've not experienced QC issues with foma 200 in sheet film, but I won't buy it in 120 anymore. I quite like it in 4x5; true speed is around 125, long straight line, plays very nice with pyro developers and very usable for both silver gelatin and alt process applications.

  4. #4

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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    Quote Originally Posted by 6x6TLL View Post

    I plan on buying a few boxes of 100 and 200 to compare, but wanted to hear if anyone here had done the same thing, and what you found.

    This film is perfect for LF, very cheap but totally capable, it can be recommended. Personally I found no QC flaws in the sheets I've processed.


    > As Koraks says Speed is lower than the box says, calibration is made with a higher CI and with and an speed increasing developer, so you should start overexposing 1/2 to 2/3 stop from what box says.

    > Emulsion is very soft when wet, handle with extreme care in the processing and until it is dry.

    > As Drew says, it has a lot of LIRF, for long exposures you should test exposures and processing, you may use roll film for that testing.


    With no doubt several artists around make nice shots with it:

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/889360...-6oMNw3-ddW3Pp


    Right now in the EU a 8x10" Fomapan 100 sheet (8x10") is 2.3€, while TXP is 14.5€ per sheet, so I decided to explore well how I can make an optimal usage from Foma 100. (https://www.fotoimpex.com/shop/syste...che=1584446506)


    I liked the result I obtained from first tests I made, but still I want to learn more about how to handle highlights and about filtration effects.

    ... so for your first try just overexpose it a bit and be careful when emulsion is wet, I make a final rinse with distilled water and very low wetting agent dose, followed by a careful squeezing. In the first batch I scratched several sheets, but not in the second time.

  5. #5

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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    I've never used Foma 200, but I've used quite a bit of both 4x5 and 8x10 Foma 100. I quite like the tonality of this film and I've never seen any QC issues. My favorite developers for it are Pyrocat-HD and HC-110.

  6. #6

    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    probably the one straight line film available except for tmax400 which is over priced in 8x10; will not develop by inspection
    I've gotten ASA 150 out of the film; bright light in sun developed in xtol or pyrocat mc
    I've used quite a bit of Foma100; reciprocity is not as bad as some people claim...test for yourself

  7. #7
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    It separates tonality down into the shadows even deeper than TMY or TMX can. But as the last "straight line film" remaining, it's disappointing compared to Bergger 200 or good ole Super XX. Still, I've managed a few excellent images with it in 8x10. Didn't enjoy the extra retouching.

  8. #8

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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    Disappointing in what way?

    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Wiley View Post
    It separates tonality down into the shadows even deeper than TMY or TMX can. But as the last "straight line film" remaining, it's disappointing compared to Bergger 200 or good ole Super XX. Still, I've managed a few excellent images with it in 8x10. Didn't enjoy the extra retouching.

  9. #9
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    The 200 product can't be "plus" developed much for sake of a high gamma, the long exposure characteristics (reciprocity failure) are awful. It does not respond to tricolor filtration well like other straight line films. The two different batches of 8x10 I tried had fine parallel cracks and random zits difficult to spot out. It develops almost twice as fast as other sheet films, so you have to move fast. The true speed is about half the advertised box speed, so unlike films with more toe, if deep shadows are underexposed, simply nothing will be there. Correctly exposed, then you get a very long scale indeed, with wonderful shadow tonality. The film box clamshells sometimes leak light at the corners, so after you remove film from its black wrap, you need to put film into a 3-part clamshell box from some other manufacture. The corners of the film are exceptionally sharp, so you have to be extra careful shuffling sheets in tray processing. The overall look is odd compared to former 200 films; but the grain is finer, and one can adapt to a new look. If you contact print, the emulsion flaws might not be a big deal, but they're obvious even with modest enlargement. But it is one of those unique films worth trying to see if it's for you or not. I'm just personally hesitant to ever buy it again because so many shots were spoiled by quality control issues of the kind I've never had in any other sheet film. It's actually cheaper for me to use Kodak TMY400 because it's so reliable and versatile; I don't have to throw away every other hard-earned shot. Or if I want a less expensive film at mid-speed, there's reliable FP4. I don't include HP5 because it has a moderately long toe and large grain - wonderful stuff, but in a different category in my opinion.

  10. #10

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    Re: Arista EDU Ultra 100 vs 200?

    Quote Originally Posted by 6x6TLL View Post
    Disappointing in what way?

    For Foma 100, see the curve, the -2 vertical line is where the meter aims, and -1 vertical line is +3 stops overexposure, using ISO speed that is lower than the BOX speed in this case (60, 80?)

    Depending on development you have a shoulder beyond +3 overexposure or not...

    For the start point, overexpose a bit and tend to develop less time, as a safety belt, you would have to print (or digitally adjust) a higher contrast with that recipe.

    As each other film it requires some learning. It is linear in the shadows but you should learn how to handle highlights. "It's The Indian, Not The Arrow"


    Click image for larger version. 

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