Picture frame refurbishing a la cheap with polyurethane

[Ulophot]

This is an archival survival sort of question.

Having just a few miscellaneous prints to frame, and preferring dark, wood frames to metal, I have several times recently picked up frames at a thrift store (anywhere from walnut to light oak) and painted them with stained polyurethane, such as Minwax or Varathane, to approach the tone of a warm selenium-toned near black. (I have found that a combination of black and very deep wood tone gets me in the ballpark, though I have yet to settle on mixture. Stay tuned.) My cost is then just a few dollars, a necessary economy for now.

I am aware that polyurethanes outgas and am wondering if a couple of weeks' curing should be adequate before putting the dry-mounted and over-matted print in the frame, behind glass. Of course, I don't know exactly what the frame may already have had in/on it, so that's another variable. Archival is too big a word for what I am concerned with here; I am rather more careful with prints that I really hope to survive me a good while.

I'm not a woodworker, and never seem to get a smooth finish anyway, no matter how hard I try or smooth between coats, and painting over previously varnished frames doesn't seem to help. Anyway, if someone has info on the fumes/volatiles issue of what I'm painting on, I'd be grateful.

[LabRat]

If you switch to shellac, there is a brief out gassing period that alcohol leaves, but then inert...

Steve K

[Ron (Netherlands)]

....and never seem to get a smooth finish anyway, no matter how hard I try or smooth between coats, and painting over previously varnished frames doesn't seem to help.....

Before coating, to get a smooth surface, fill in the pores of the wood. I do this by applying egg white on the surface before wet sanding with (ultra)fine sandpaper - let dry and only sand one last time with the (ulta) fine sandpaper before applying a coat...

[Willie]

When putting in prints seal the rabbet with aluminized mylar. Will prevent outgassing into the print area behind glass/plexi.

If making your own frames Home Depot type places sell "Garden Stakes" - 4-5 foot long and inch square wood stakes. Cut off the pointed end, rout a rabbit and finish corners and you have inexpensive OAK or MAPLE frames. Make them dark with whatever stain you like - have found EBONY works well for them. Last few batches I got were all very nice, clean Maple. Some we stained much lighter so you could see the birds eye figure in the wood.

[Dugan]

When putting in prints seal the rabbet with aluminized mylar. Will prevent outgassing into the print area behind glass/plexi.

If making your own frames Home Depot type places sell "Garden Stakes" - 4-5 foot long and inch square wood stakes. Cut off the pointed end, rout a rabbit and finish corners and you have inexpensive OAK or MAPLE frames. Make them dark with whatever stain you like - have found EBONY works well for them. Last few batches I got were all very nice, clean Maple. Some we stained much lighter so you could see the birds eye figure in the wood.

Great information, thanks!

[Ulophot]

Thanks to both. I have from time to time considered making my own frames, but I am a poor craftsman and can't justify the cost of the cutting and framing tools I'd need to do it. I had tried it years ago with an inexpensive wooden miter saw jig for the 45-degree angles, with sorry results. If I were still trying to make a living with my art, it might be another matter, but I am presently constrained to doing occasional work for myself. Such is life.

I'll look into the mylar tape; thanks.