Change of fixer

[Chuck Pere]

Have you done a quick film clearing time test with the new fixer? This will at least tell you if the new fixer is working OK.

[Doremus Scudder]

Peter,

First, let's talk fixing times for fiber-base prints. Ilford recommends 1 minute for Hypam mixed 1+4 and 2 minutes for the 1+9 dilution. Fomafix recommends 3 minutes at the 1+5 dilution (I think I got this wrong in my first post...). At any rate, it seems you are fixing for the proper time, so that shouldn't be a problem. A bit longer will not noticeably degrade the highlights, so you have a bit of a safety margin.

If the fixers are formulated correctly and not out-of-date (expired due to age), then there really should be no adverse effects on your paper. If the fixer is not as active as it should be for some reason, then a veiling of the highlights from unfixed halides in the emulsion may be the result. If so, these prints are at risk for rapid degradation. You need to test to see if your fix is working correctly.

So, you should certainly compare the two fixers side-by-side asap and see if, indeed, it is the Fomafix that is causing you problems. First, though, visually inspect your Fomafix concentrate. If there is a precipitate or if there are solids suspended in it, it has likely gone bad. Fix two identical prints, one in fresh new fix and one in your Fomafix. If prints in the new fixer have clearer highlights compared to the Fomafix, then the Foma product is not doing its job due to age, poor storage, etc. If you find this, you should re-fix all the prints you fixed in the Foma product and re-wash.

If you find the Fomafix to be the culprit, then you should inform Foma; I'm sure they will want to know.

If, on the other hand, there is not a difference in the prints from new fixer and the Fomafix, you'll have to look elsewhere for your problem.

Your stop bath is almost certainly not the problem. You can look elsewhere.

You might want to check the paper for fogging; it's easy and quick, but should be done in total darkness to rule out safelight fog as a factor. Simply cut two small pieces of paper; don't expose them to anything. Develop, stop and fix one piece, but just fix the second piece. If, after full fixing, the whites of the two pieces match, there's no problem. If the white of the developed piece is grayer/yellower, then the paper is likely fogged (or, in the case of some yellowing, the developer may be staining the paper: rarer).

Also, make a print with and without the safelights on and see if that makes any difference. I've had to switch to red safelights to use the Fomabrom Variant 111. The amber Kodak OC safelights fogged the paper after just a short time. A regular safelight test may be in order if you find a difference between prints made with and without the safelight on. Look for the Kodak datasheet on safelights for a great test.

FWIW, the 5l size of Fomafix does not appear to be available in the USA any longer; only the 1 liter bottle, which is not nearly as economical.

Let us know how your testing goes.

Best,

Doremus

[Doremus Scudder]

Have you done a quick film clearing time test with the new fixer? This will at least tell you if the new fixer is working OK.

Yes, indeed, provided that one has a baseline established already, i.e., the correct clearing time for a certain film in fresh fixer, to compare to.

Or, if the fixer simply won't clear the film at all in the recommended time, you can bet it is bad. The problem is for fix that is partially exhausted; it may clear film, but take longer. Unless you have the clearing time in fresh fix to compare to, you might not notice that the fix is on its way out.

Doremus

[12pmc]

Doremus and Cor. Thank you for you suggestions.

I have checked the fixer for sediment etc and it’s fine no foreign substances, and it clears the film completely in the allotted time. I have ordered some new hypam and will run a test when it arrives, also the paper fogging test too and let you know.

Thanks again

Peter

[12pmc]

Hi Doremus,

Just to revert I did the paper fog test you suggested and all good. New fixer stuck due to virus restrictions on shipping. So I reprinted the same neg and similar results.... at least it’s consistent!

Cheers
Peter