Developing Time the cause or somethings else....

[AdamD]

Hi.

I just developed a 35mm roll of Ilford FP4 Plus 125 in a new camera to me. It's a used Nikon F100. I use the exact same film in my 4x5. I also used HC-110 to develop using delusion B (1+31). For the 4x5 I've used 8 minutes. So, I did the same with the first roll of 35mm.

Pretty much all the photos seems over exposed, I would say by more than 1 stop. I've also noticed that my 4x5 images seems to need a lot of added contrast to make them pop a bit more.

So, I then found online another data sheet for Ilford FP4 Plus and it actually gave the development times for HC-110 which was listed at 9 minutes. My 4x5 box only showed Ilford development times.

Anyway, would adding 1 minute help my F100 35mm "exposure" problem? I'm wondering if the issue is more development time vs a problem with the camera. Btw...I had a camera shop check out the F100 and it tested good on shutter speed.

Thoughts?

Adam

[Jim Michael]

Exposure controls density and development controls contrast, so it sounds like your 4x5 needs the dev time increase and perhaps the shutter on the Nikon is a bit slow. Try backing off the exposure on the 35mm.

[AdamD]

Exposure controls density and development controls contrast, so it sounds like your 4x5 needs the dev time increase and perhaps the shutter on the Nikon is a bit slow. Try backing off the exposure on the 35mm.

Right. That makes sense for the 4x5 considering Ilford suggested 9 minutes. I'll try that next.

And bracketing is the easiest thing to try for the 35mm, BUT, the next question is.....

After I shoot the next roll with a bunch of bracketed shots, should I process at the new 9 minutes or the old 8 minutes? I'm thinking 9 minutes....

[Doremus Scudder]

Right. That makes sense for the 4x5 considering Ilford suggested 9 minutes. I'll try that next.

And bracketing is the easiest thing to try for the 35mm, BUT, the next question is.....

After I shoot the next roll with a bunch of bracketed shots, should I process at the new 9 minutes or the old 8 minutes? I'm thinking 9 minutes....

Everyone has to test to find their personal optimum developing time. So should you. Recommendations are just starting points.

If your negatives are overexposed, then it's the meter or shutter causing the problem. Not development.

If you are developing your 4x5 and 35mm films in different tanks with different agitation schemes, the development times will likely be different too. Keep that in mind when testing.

If you are making darkroom prints, learn how to make a proper proof (minimum time to render maximum black on the paper through the clear rebate of the film). This will tell you a lot about your exposure and development.

If you are scanning your negatives, then your scanner settings may be in the way. I'm not the one to help you there.

Do let us know the final print medium you are using; it would help a lot.

So, try 9 minutes with your 35mm film and see how it does. You can always refine later.

Best,

Doremus

[Jim Noel]

You did not shoot the same film in 35mm and 4x5. They are two different emulsions.

[AdamD]

Everyone has to test to find their personal optimum developing time. So should you. Recommendations are just starting points.

If your negatives are overexposed, then it's the meter or shutter causing the problem. Not development.

I agree, but being my recommended development starting point was incorrect by 1 minute, I asked....

If you are developing your 4x5 and 35mm films in different tanks with different agitation schemes, the development times will likely be different too. Keep that in mind when testing.

Totally good point!! Thank you!! That will help knowing this....

If you are making darkroom prints, learn how to make a proper proof (minimum time to render maximum black on the paper through the clear rebate of the film). This will tell you a lot about your exposure and development.

No prints yet....just DSLR scanning and editing. I've got a few 4x5 shots that would make a good print, but nothing printed yet and it will likely be from a digital file to print.

If you are scanning your negatives, then your scanner settings may be in the way. I'm not the one to help you there.

Do let us know the final print medium you are using; it would help a lot.

So, try 9 minutes with your 35mm film and see how it does. You can always refine later.

Best,

Doremus

Many thanks!!

I just shot another FP4 roll with the F100 and this time I manually underexposed 1/2, 2/2 and 1 stop (four shots in all for each test). Just developed the roll using the 8 minutes that I've been doing. My eye is not that well trained at looking at negatives yet, but it looked like the 1/3 or 2/3 under exposed shots look more balanced (not so dark). But I'll know better tomorrow when I DSLR scan them.

Thanks guys.

[AdamD]

Here is an update.....

I shot my last roll of FP5 yesterday and tested the F100 metering along side my D7200. The two cameras were almost exactly matched at various f stops and light conditions. I also verified with the 7200 that the images were correctly exposed using the histogram. I was aiming for an even exposure. I also used no filter and an orange (#15) filter. I'd often take a shot without it and with it.

Here's what I'm seeing.....

The photos were MUCH better after developing in accordance with HC-110 (5 minutes). I also believe the F100 light meter is correct, but it might have a natural tendency to over expose slightly....not sure so looking for opinions there.

I noticed that the shots with the #15 filter, regardless of sky or no sky, are way better. It's to the point that the filter should just live on the lens with B&W film. Thoughts on that???

I also found that the shots I deliberately under exposed by 1/3 and even 2/3 of a stop WITH the orange filter were the best exposures.

So, for sure, my developing time was 90% of my problem, but I think I still need to adjust the camera a bit more.

[Gary Beasley]

Also bear in mind scanners like thinner negs than usually used for darkroom prints. You should make some darkroom prints of your various negs to see which ones deliver the tonality you want if darkroom printing is your desired final product. If all you intend to do is scan and digital print you are going the right direction.

[AdamD]

Yes I want to digitally scan using my D7200 and then clean them up (hopefully not a lot) in editing software. Then, if something looks really good I have a couple different directions I can go with getting it printed properly.