Can it be a solution for avoiding newton rings

[Laci Toth]

I used to lift up an edge of the glass and set it down just before the exposure. The Newton rings would move around before settling, and this movement eliminate them from visibility in the print. Worked most of the time when making proof prints.

Interesting idea! My question might be funny but how much time do the rings need to settle? As I want to do lith prints and use an enlarger without lens, the exposure time can be long.

[Hugo Zhang]

All my printings are contact printing and all my contact printing frames give me Newton rings. Should I replace them with Tru Vue Museum glass? They are made for picture frames, not contact printers.


Any links for the glass you use for contact printing that does not give you Newton ring?

[Hugo Zhang]

I have also noticed that 810 Tmax film gives the most Newton ring as its very shiny side is pressed against the glass.

[Laci Toth]

Stick a strip of sticky tape on a piece of glass and give it a test! Perhaps no negative and exposed to light gray...look for any pattern formed under the tape...or do the test with an image.

or

Lay your negative on the photo paper, cover half with your regular glass and the other half with plex and determine if there is any quality difference. Use an image with large areas of even tonality.

Alright, I’ll give them a try! Thanks!

[Ron McElroy]

I just looked at the specs of museum glass from this company https://tru-vue.com/ and all of their products seem to have UV blocking coatings. I understand the desire to use it for framing, but in a contact frame it would be a problem for any alt processing.

[Laci Toth]

All my printings are contact printing and all my contact printing frames give me Newton rings. Should I replace them with Tru Vue Museum glass? They are made for picture frames, not contact printers.


Any links for the glass you use for contact printing that does not give you Newton ring?

I’ve just found them, though I give the ideas of this thread a go.
http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/mainintro.html

[Hugo Zhang]

Laci,

My 810 contact printer are using 9x11 and 9 5/8 x 11 11/16 glasses and the betterscanning offers 8x10 glass.


Has anyone used contact printing Mylar sheets? How does that work?

[Hugo Zhang]

Found this one:

http://fpointinc.com/glass.htm

But its online ordering is not working and don't know if it is still in business.

[Drew Wiley]

You'll make it worse by that tape method. The film won't be flat, and where it does make contact with the glass, that's where you'll have rings. Anti-Newton glass is NOT frosted glass or non-glare picture glass. The real deal has a much more subtle effect. I routinely use it on BOTH sides of the film. I know that Bob might scream and stamp his feet about that, but not only is it necessary in this foggy climate, but works extremely well IF you have the right kind of glass. Mere coated glass has never done the trick for me. As a last resort you could use anti-Newton spray available from the same outfits that sell scanning fluids. But there's a distinct technique to using such sprays; and a fume hood is necessary for health reasons. Focal Point is no longer in business.

[Bob Salomon]

You'll make it worse by that tape method. The film won't be flat, and where it does make contact with the glass, that's where you'll have rings. Anti-Newton glass is NOT frosted glass or non-glare picture glass. The real deal has a much more subtle effect. I routinely use it on BOTH sides of the film. I know that Bob might scream and stamp his feet about that, but not only is it necessary in this foggy climate, but works extremely well IF you have the right kind of glass. Mere coated glass has never done the trick for me. As a last resort you could use anti-Newton spray available from the same outfits that sell scanning fluids. But there's a distinct technique to using such sprays; and a fume hood is necessary for health reasons. Focal Point is no longer in business.

Won’t stamp my feet.