Opening top of Symmar-S 210

[erian]

I am trying to open the top of Symmar-S 210 (the lens has considerable separation) but the thing does not give up.

What is the standard solution to make the threads to go more easy?

[Dan Fromm]

Um, er, ah, the standard solution is to replace the lens with one whose groups don't have separation.

The non-standard solution is just to use the thing. Separation manifested as heavy Newton's rights can make a lens unusable, separation manifested as rings of fire sometimes has no ill effect.

First situation. I have a 25/1.4 Cine Ektar II -- super lens for 16 mm film -- with EKCo's own 25-15 converter, which screws into the front of the lens. The converter's first group is badly separated, shows lovely Newton's rings. Film shot with it captures them very well.

Second situation. I have a 58/5.6 Grandagon ex-Graflex XL. Both cells have peripheral rings of fire, the rear cell has silvery spots near center. It shoots beautifully.

Ask you lens whether it is usable as-is.

[Bob Salomon]

Um, er, ah, the standard solution is to replace the lens with one whose groups don't have separation.

The non-standard solution is just to use the thing. Separation manifested as heavy Newton's rights can make a lens unusable, separation manifested as rings of fire sometimes has no ill effect.

First situation. I have a 25/1.4 Cine Ektar II -- super lens for 16 mm film -- with EKCo's own 25-15 converter, which screws into the front of the lens. The converter's first group is badly separated, shows lovely Newton's rings. Film shot with it captures them very well.

Second situation. I have a 58/5.6 Grandagon ex-Graflex XL. Both cells have peripheral rings of fire, the rear cell has silvery spots near center. It shoots beautifully.

Ask you lens whether it is usable as-is.

Don’t even ask. Shoot it!

[domaz]

Your not going to fix a modern plastmat lens with glue seperation unless you are prepared to open it up, dissolve the glue and re-glue it using the correct UV glue anyways (without disturbing the centering). Not worth it for a common lens like this.

[erian]

No, no, I am not about to fix it. I just want to take the broken thing away and keep the meniscus in place.

[Dan Fromm]

No, no, I am not about to fix it. I just want to take the broken thing away and keep the meniscus in place.

Not to be a complete idiot, but why?

If you want to experiment, try shooting with the good cell. The Symmar S wasn't sold as a convertible but the cells pass light and produce images. Not the very best images, but images all the same.

[Jimi]

Not to be a complete idiot, but why?

Not to be another on board the boat (and indeed not suggesting Mr Fromm being a nutcase!), but I think Jim Galli mentioned something somewhere about making the Symmar into a f:9 soft focus lens ... but let's see what the OP has in mind ...

[ic-racer]

What is the standard solution to make the threads to go more easy?

I use an undiluted acetone solution. It will wick itself into the threads and frequently will relax any agent placed on the threads to lock the ring in place during initial assembly.

[Kevin Crisp]

What are you using to try and unscrew the retaining ring? I have yet to see one I can't take apart with the SK Grimes tool, unless the rim is dented.

[erian]

Not to be another on board the boat (and indeed not suggesting Mr Fromm being a nutcase!), but I think Jim Galli mentioned something somewhere about making the Symmar into a f:9 soft focus lens ... but let's see what the OP has in mind ...

Indeed, this is my plan. He mentioned rear cell but front one will work also when I turn it around. I am using a iris clamp and as such this is not a problem for me.

I have only the front cell. I could also bought a separate meniscus lens but for that I should have figured out how to mount it. Symmar has this already covered.