Kodak 2D Light Leaks

[Two23]

I think I've found the biggest source of the light leak. On the top of the 8x10 back there is a brass channel strip, "P" shaped. It runs across the top of the back. It looks like it's there to give more stability and prevent wear as film holders are slid in. The problem isn't the flat part of the strip that's on the top, but the part that sticks down between the GG frame and the back. It's about 2mm thick. This prevents the holders from laying flat against the opening. When I push the holders all the way in so the lip on the holder engages this brass strip, the bottom of the holder sticks out past the bottom of the 8x10 back and leaves a big gap. I found no way to insert either a modern or vintage dark slide into the back where the holder would sit completely flush against the frame. The brass "P" strip interfered. Has anyone else seen this? When I removed the strip the holders so lay flat and there is very little if any light leak around the film holders. Why is that strip there?

Red arrow points to the brass strip.


Kent in SD

[DMS206]

The brass rail is on the wrong side, it should be on the side opposite where you insert the film holder, it is a stop for the film holder, someone put the ground glass frame on upside down
Dave

[Two23]

Now that makes sense! As it is there is nothing to prevent the holder from slipping out. Camera was disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled by the guy I bought it from. Will try flipping things around tonight. Thanks!


Kent in SD

[C. D. Keth]

Now that makes sense! As it is there is nothing to prevent the holder from slipping out.

WHen you flip the ground glass, you'll find a channel that will fit a ridge in the light trap end of each face on your holders. That keeps it from coming out and tells you the holder is seated fully.

[Doremus Scudder]

Photos of the correct installation anyone?

[diversey]

Just unscrew the grand glass frame (2 pins on one side) and rotate it 180 degrees. The previous owner did not install the grand glass frame correctly.

[Louis Pacilla]

I think I've found the biggest source of the light leak. On the top of the 8x10 back there is a brass channel strip, "P" shaped. It runs across the top of the back. It looks like it's there to give more stability and prevent wear as film holders are slid in. The problem isn't the flat part of the strip that's on the top, but the part that sticks down between the GG frame and the back. It's about 2mm thick. This prevents the holders from laying flat against the opening. When I push the holders all the way in so the lip on the holder engages this brass strip, the bottom of the holder sticks out past the bottom of the 8x10 back and leaves a big gap. I found no way to insert either a modern or vintage dark slide into the back where the holder would sit completely flush against the frame. The brass "P" strip interfered. Has anyone else seen this? When I removed the strip the holders so lay flat and there is very little if any light leak around the film holders. Why is that strip there?

Red arrow points to the brass strip.


Kent in SD

Kent that brass piece under your ground glass frame is a booster spring for your ground glass spring. one sits one the top of main springs on each side. Again it sits on the top of the main spring then the 2 screws go through both. In the photo you posted this is laying underneath your main spring instead of on top of them.

I hope you get what I'm saying as this is a different build problem to the one others have alerted you to. The improper placed holder stop they mentioned is the main culprit but you may as well fix your misplaced booster spring at the same time.

BTW you can use the camera without those booster springs but 1st remove them and at that point may as well reinstall them properly.

[Two23]

The GG frame was indeed installed upside down! I can't believe I didn't catch that. This is where another set of eyes is a great thing. I flipped it around and put the helper spring on top of the main spring. The back now works as it should, and the Stenopeika wet plate holder looks like it will be fine. I gave it all the flashlight test and didn't see any more leaks. I loaded up a holder with two sheets of FP4+ again and headed back to the waterfall. I took two shots without covering the camera back. Exposure was f32, 1/2s, ISO 125 on a heavy overcast day. Processed the film in my SP810 with correct temp & chemical ratios. There was no obvious light leak.

However, I still have the weird look to the water areas on the negative. I've been thinking it's do to spray in the air and how the long exposure treats it, but I'm not so sure. I scanned using Vuescan and processed in PS. The exposure graph on Photoshop showed it was about a stop over exposed? I used my Minolta IVf incident meter which in the past has been correct. Of course, the ground is deep snow. Will shoot two sheets again tomorrow at one stop less exposure and see what happens. Thanks for the help so far--I think my camera problem is solved.


Kent in SD

[Andrew Tymon]

Looks like you are still having development issues, I'm guessing it's not from the scanning. The weird look to the water looks like the negative was solarized. Is light getting into the tank? Maybe you could try processing in really subdued light to see if that's the problem. What's your agitation schedule? Are you giving constant agitation for the first 30 seconds?

[Two23]

Agitate for 30s, then 4 tips or agitate for 10s every minute. Never had problems using the sp445. Must be something I'm doing with the SP810. Will try your suggestions.


Kent in SD