Shoot two identical negatives. Develope one in a tray as a control.
You might want continous agitation for the first minute. Then 5 seconds every thirty seconds after.
The control will eliminate a lot of variables immediately.
Shoot two identical negatives. Develope one in a tray as a control.
You might want continous agitation for the first minute. Then 5 seconds every thirty seconds after.
The control will eliminate a lot of variables immediately.
Have you considered that the problem may not be with your developing method or the SP-445?
Which film are you using? How old is it? How has it been stored? The film itself could be the culprit.
Which filmholders are you using? There was one brand that had a problem with the darkslides not being absolutely opaque that caused a lot of mottling and unevenness on the negatives. That's a place to check too.
Which developer are you using, how are you mixing it and how old is it? Bad chemicals could be the culprit here as well.
In short, after developing 32 sheets in what for most is a rather fool-proof system, I think I'd be looking elsewhere for the problem too. Doing control tests using different film, chemistry, developing method (send a sheet to the lab too), etc. will help you narrow down the possibilities.
Good luck sorting things out,
Doremus
Looks like bad film or chemistry, as Doremus suggests. How old is the film, was it ever left in a hot car or storage. Ilfosal 3 only lasts a few months once opened. Really need to decanter into smal bottles and store in fridge once opened, but usually doesn't develop when gone bad. Really looks like something wrong with the film. Try a new batch.
Are you inserting the film into either your film holders or into the tank holders upside down?
Newly made large format dry plates available! Look:
https://www.pictoriographica.com
5 minutes seems really short, I believe that is bare minimum. Most development times are 9 to 18 minutes depending on the mix. Also agitation for the first minute then 10 seconds every minute after. But all that is not set in stone, just what I do following the dev chart.
If you are right handed, the entire work flow from start to finish, and I mean start to finish, should be your right forefinger always on the notch. From removing from the box, to loading film, to removing film, to sticking it in some sort of developer device, to hanging up. That way you are consistent.
But I don't see how it would go wrong if it is upside down in the film holder or sp445? Unless it was backasswards.
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I've been struggling a bit with 35mm and 120 in a Paterson tank, but the SP-445 has been flawless for me. Haven't had one bad picture yet. I'm currently using the Stearman kit with the Foma 100, and their developer, fixer, and H2O-flow. I follow the instructions exactly, and agitate the way they show in the video.
I think OP's issue issue is that the film is backwards in the holders, so the emulsion is facing in, rather than out.
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