Suggestions for a low cost incident light meter

[jp]

DSLR metering is compatible with shooting B&W film. Just keep in mind that DSLRs handle shadows and highlights differently just as different film/developer combos handle things differently. Many people use a meter app or their DSLR. I leave my DSLR in auto-iso mode, so it's a pain to put it in manual ISO mode, then remember to set it back to auto iso when done metering, and I use heavy Sigma f1.4 lenses on the DSLR, so it's heavier than typical film cameras. Instead of lugging $2000 and 5 pounds of gear I might not use to take photos with, I use the Sekonic 208 meter which is lighter than a pocket watch.

[AdamD]

Ahh, but for color it matters much more then....

[Leszek Vogt]

but basically do you just set the LF lens to whatever the DSLR says?

There is more to exposure than it meets the eye. Initially, I'd suggest to bracket....to come up with a happy medium. Box speed may show 100ASA....and you'll have to determine whether 2/3ds or 1/2 that speed would be acceptable. OK, so there is that. Make sure the bellows are properly compensated for (1/3 - 1+ stops). Then you may have reciprocity....each film is bit different. Also, one can adjust the lens/shutter as per personal preference and look desired. Once you get the feel for the "proper" exposure, you can always adjust or deviate to accomplish your goals.....it's experience related.

Les

[Alan Klein]

I bought a Minolta Autometer IIIF that measures flash as well as incident light under $100. You didn;t mention if you were using flash like for portraits. There's also a reflective light attachment you can add later if you need it or get it at the same time.

[Alan Klein]

Or get the Minolta IVF.

[Two23]

I have a Minolta IVf that I use for my LF cameras and other vintage cameras. It's a good meter. I use it for incident and flash. I think Adam could get something cheaper just to meter ambient light. Can always sell and get something else later if he stays with LF.



Kent in SD

[eli]

The Luna Pro F is the one to get, although it is larger than the Luna pro SBC, which does no need a battery and has it's own issues in dim light.

The larger 'F' , F stands for flash, uses the 9 volt battery and you will run into times when a small fill light is needed, to get the right exposure, and it is an excellent meter, even today.

Compared to modern meters, it is a huge thing, but it is (in working order) just as accurate as they are, especially in low, existing light, and they have the 'bonus' of accepting a number of accessories, including a darkroom exposure metering adapter, a 'spot' adapter, (only 7.5 degrees) a probe for metering on the film plane of a view camera, and I forget what else.

There is also something to say for a meter that you can both use to make the exposure on, and then meter in the darkroom, in the same areas you metered in making the shot.

I still use one, as well as a Pentax 1 degree needle meter and a pair of Weston V's.

All of these are good, solid meters, and despite their age, do a very good job (though the light is weak in the Pentax tool.

Look for a working Luna pro F here or at KEH.com, or buy a spot meter and average out your readings, is the thing I suggest.

Solid tools and bang for the buck is what these meters represent and as your skill and budget grows, you can one day more to newer models.

IMO.

[mike rosenlof]

The gossen Luna lux SBC is a very nice meter. Prices seem 50 or 60 these days.

[Greg]

Spectra Director Exposure Meter Model D
or
Norwood Director Model D Exposure Meter Color Manic

Up for auction for usually under $20

[AdamD]

Hi all,

I decided on the Luna Pro F. I found one on the auction site.

Can't wait!!

You have all been a huge help.