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Thread: 5x7 Agfa Ansco looking a bit rough

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    San Joaquin Valley, California
    Posts
    8,982

    5x7 Agfa Ansco looking a bit rough

    LabRats advice was good. I opened the camera to see how the liquid tape set and had stuck to it's self, so on to round two and this time instead of folding the camera I put it in a bag to protect from dust and set it on a table in a spare room for a couple of weeks.
    But I noticed the bottom leg of the front standard was looking a little rough, like the finish had cracked so it will need attention.
    Any ideas?
    Should I use a filler then sand it smooth, or sand the finish off and then use a filler, if needed?
    Since there is a glued finger joint in the area I don't want to use a solvent as that might attack the glue.
    I suspect it is the gloss finish that is badly cracked, and not the cherry underneath(fingers crossed)

    And what is the best way to match the original---dark mahogany gloss finish? This is a small section, about the size of a quarter on the upright, just above the brass focusing knob
    I steal time at 1/125th of a second, so I don't consider my photography to be Fine Art as much as it is petty larceny.
    I'm not OCD. I'm CDO which is alphabetically correct.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    SooooCal/LA USA
    Posts
    1,780

    Re: 5x7 Agfa Ansco looking a bit rough

    Here I am (not) to tell you "I told you so", but you dove right in without asking, so a little nah-nah to you!!! (Don't ask me how I know about putting gloppy stuff on bellows leaks even many weeks later...) ;-)

    Research fixing chips on acoustic guitars... I have techniques to fix spots that don't require the finish to be removed beyond the work area... Is it painted, heavy varnish, into the wood etc? All are a little different, but sorta the same process... You would fill the gap nearly to the surface, try to match the color with model paint (many browns for model railroad and military models)or the original stain or wood color is still there
    (but maybe a little dry, but can return after treatments)... Then my trick is to level the repair area the best you can and apply superglue and build it up slightly higher than surface... let dry a day or two, then use a cabinet scraper (new tool to look up!!!), or the side of a single edge razor blade, and scrape lightly until almost even with surface... Then go to the auto store and get an assortment package of auto paint polishing papers, tape it to a flat something like a popsicle stick and sand to the surface, starting with 800 grit, then that wet damp paper, then 1000+ wet, 1500 etc, until 2000 or 2500... Then some rubbing, then polishing compound... The superglue dries perfectly clear like liquid plexiglass and is tough... And cheaper than buying a full can of finish... It can leave a white haze around area, but polishing compound removes it...

    If you find cracks, apply the superglue to it like above, and follow the above process... You might clamp it beforehand, as the glue will penetrate into the wood and make a permanent repair...

    I make invisible repairs to wood cameras, antiques, guitars, but I have some practice... But not hard, but as always YMMV... Or talk to a local luthier, as this is what they do a lot...

    Steve K
    Last edited by LabRat; 8-Jan-2020 at 04:02.

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