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Thread: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

  1. #1

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    Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    Hi everyone,

    I am currently experiencing an issue with my cyanotype traditional printing process, specifically concerning the edges of my prints. Despite my efforts to mask the edges with an opaque material during exposure, I consistently encounter a visible edge around the emulsion after the development bath. I have attached some pictures to provide visual context for the problem.

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    To apply the emulsion, I use a soft brush or sponge, laying down a generous amount of emulsion on the paper. This technique has resulted in prints that are rich and free from visible brushstrokes. The black areas of the negative clear out wonderfully, but unfortunately, the edges do not. While the presence of an analog feel in certain instances is intriguing, I would like to understand why this occurs and how I can control this parameter.

    I have experimented with various techniques to address this issue, including adjusting exposure times, distances between the light source and the print, as well as modifying the washing process. However, the problem persists.

    I would greatly appreciate any advice, suggestions, or insights from those who have encountered a similar issue or possess expertise in cyanotype printing.

    Best regards,

    Alessandro

  2. #2
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    Thanks for posting

    Do you mean the very outside hand torn edge?

    I am also beginning cyanotype
    Tin Can

  3. #3

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    Re: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    What material are you using to mask the edge?
    Ron McElroy
    Memphis

  4. #4

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    Re: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    If neither exposure nor masking have an effect, I'd say it's most likely the paper or the chemistry.

    Mike Ware's Cyanomicon (free on his web site) has a process for diagnosing fog in cyanotypes, on page 221. It might help you identify the cause.

  5. #5
    multiplex
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    Re: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    is your paper bone dry before you contact print with it? weird things happen when it's not

  6. #6

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    Re: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    Thank you for the tip. Following the table in the book, it could be a problem with the Sensitizer being decomposed. I haven't used it in a few months, so that might be the cause. I'll try replacing it and will let you know. The paper should be fine as I've seen other people using the same brand with no issues.

  7. #7
    multiplex
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    Re: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    Quote Originally Posted by Alessandropi View Post
    Thank you for the tip. Following the table in the book, it could be a problem with the Sensitizer being decomposed. I haven't used it in a few months, so that might be the cause. I'll try replacing it and will let you know. The paper should be fine as I've seen other people using the same brand with no issues.
    Hi, what "brand" of cyanotype chemistry are you using ? It might be worth your effort in purchasing a small quantity the raw ingredients (and a small scale), and mixing your own chemistry from scratch .. and comparing your results. I only use the "classic" formula, I don't use the New Cyanotype, or Cyanotype REX formulas if you are using those. I've used stock solutions (in separate bottles) that were over a year old, 2-3 coats ( which is what I always do ) and never had problems, except the paper was not dry when I exposed and rinsed it. Are you sub coating your paper with a sizing agent / sub layer like arrowroot or gelatin ?

    Good luck !

  8. #8
    Pete Oakley
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    Re: Help Needed: Persistent Edge Issue in Cyanotype Traditional Printing

    I use the mount to mask my finished prints. With my Solution "A" I dissolve 25g of Ammonium Ferric Citrate (sometimes called Ammonium Iron (III) Citrate) in 70cc of denoised water and as this solution can go mouldy after a week or two I add a few crystals of Thymol and it stops the problem. Thymol is allegedly harmful and it has disgusting fumes, be careful. The Thymol floats on the surface of the solution. I get mine from a bee keeper. I also add a few drops of a 10% Potassium Dichromate solution once I have mixed solutions A & B ready for use. If you are using a thin negative add a few drops more. The paper needs to be bone dry, the solution needs to be 20c . I pre coat my paper with a 10% Oxalic Acid solution and allow it to dry (usually overnight) before coating with sensitisor. I do nothing else to the acidified paper. I use a yellow safelight when I'm coating the paper and once the first coat has dried I apply a second coat in the other direction. PM me if you want my formula but DON'T argue about it, it works for me and this is after a few years of experimentation. I find that Fabriano Artistico is good, and Windsor & Newton Smooth Surface Heavyweight Cartridge Paper works really well and is relatively cheap.

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