Neutrals are tricky. I've evaluated a number of inkjet papers for that configuration and found only one combination where the 3/8-inch white reveal is compatible with the overmat. Granted, I haven't tried every paper or mat board, but if one sticks to majors like Rising / Bainbridge AlphaRag and is sensitive to the subtle variations of "white," this will be challenging.Originally Posted by Ken Lee
Framing and matting is a matter of taste and can make or break a photo.
There has to be a harmony between the frame, the mat, the print paper color and the print ink color - which lifts the photo to an even higher level of refinement or emphasis.
It's one thing to save pennies and present all our photos with a uniform treatment (as in a gallery setting), but to avoid a sterile urban museum look and for the best individual rendering of each photo I go to the frame shop and explore the many options until one best combination emerges. One image at a time.
Often the framer (or my wife) are much better at bringing out the full potential of images because they are not attached to our limited conceptions.
https://www.designsinkart.com/librar...ting200410.htm
https://www.designsinkart.com/librar...ives199809.htm
https://www.framedestination.com/fra...s-paschke.html
Check out the mounting information Chris Paschke has. She would be a good person to check with as her knowledge of the problems and solutions may be helpful.
” Never attribute to inspiration that which can be adequately explained by delusion”.
This is the Canson Platine for inkjet printing.
Time ago we were requested by a photolab that was moving to the ink to find a method to detect OBAs, we found that a simple UV torch test proved to be conclusive. Then we were asked to find acidity, we made several tests...
We found that an easy way was wetting the paper/cardboard a bit and then throwing a tinny drop of pH test reagent, of narrow detection range that should be very sensitive with low acidity.
The water used to wet the paper should be bidistilled and just boiled to expel any diluted CO2, water used should be 7.0pH checked, as CO2 in the ambient disolves in the water to end in 5.9pH
From those tests we learned that acidity may make its path into a paper through humidity, as CO2 in the ambient is diluted. The chemist that was explaning that to us to also told that this is well known, karstic formations (caves) were made in that way, CO2 in the rain drops makes water acidic and this is what disolves limestone. What is clear is that long term moisture is a main factor in the paper yellowing...
Anyway there are standards for procedures in determining acidity in the paper, an specialized lab would say it better.
_____
It would be interesting to check what acidity has that yellowed paper, and what is in the not hot mounted papers... it is extrange that only those that were hot mounted had the problem...
I think that this is an interesting case, please report what happened if you can find it, it would be a good teaching.
Last edited by Pere Casals; 20-Oct-2019 at 09:42.
My French is "tres mal..."
Sorry - started a response yesterday and the site went down for maintenance. Pending contact with Canson (and going forward anyway), I am going to only use corners for mounting. Thanks everyone for your input.
If you mean my mounting time in the press, it is 2 minutes @ 185F. I'm not sure if the board is buffered or not.
I have not heard back from Canson after several tries. Does anyone have a US contact phone number ? Thanks !
I don't have a contact number for Canson but you might want to ask the Piezography guys.
They know all about papers, manufacturers, etc. and have been consistently helpful and generous. They might also have useful contact info.
See https://shop.inkjetmall.com/
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