Thanks, Jason.
Thanks, Jason.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Why not 3D print the brake shoes in some heavy duty plastic
No felt necessary and can be trimmed to fit with a Dremel
I bet Peter already thought of this...
Tin Can
I've done some 3d printing, but I'm not very impressed with durability, at least with the printers/materials I have access to. My plan was to use a good hardwood for the replacements, probably maple, as it's much easier for me to work than metals.
I plan on measuring the piece, maybe with some help from Jason, rough cutting on the band saw, and then taping some sandpaper to a cutoff section of the upright tubes, and sanding until the shoe fits. As Randy says, the shoe doesn't need to exert tremendous force. Mainly, it just has to not break down under gentle use of the levers/cams.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
The recess for the shoe looks like this:
I looks like a 1/4" thick piece about 1-5/8" x 2.25" and curved to fit the pipe should work.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I still think steel, as it's more fun to play blacksmith with a hammer
and I can't find mine, but you know why...
nice pic, in that hole
Tin Can
Well, I've never work with steel. Heat it up and pound to shape? I do have two sections of cut off pipe from the stand. I could jigsaw out two pieces. The curves should be close, and maybe I could heat them and then use the rest of the wast piece as a form. If I do that, I should probably yell "Yee hah!" at random intervals.
I also have 1/4" thick black ABS sheet. I could cut to size, drop into boiling water for a few minutes, and then shape it around the pipe.
Thanks for searching for your spares!
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
1/4” can be cold worked
The thing is it’s a pita to replace it if ABS breaks.
But you do have cutoff pipe to test with
I am sure you can make something work
Tin Can
When working steel or whatever you use, it is often better to use a longer piece for leverage, drilling, shaping. Then cut to length and finish
A big vice and a 4 lb hammer will bang it into shape quickly
Steel being stronger than OE cast aluminum may not need to be as thick as original, allowing more space for brake shoe material
I used https://www.mcmaster.com/felt adhesive backed white felt for camera to plattorm feet, it may work for friction also
Tin Can
Good tips, Randy. Thanks!
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
The main depression will hold a piece 1/8" thick. I bent a piece of aluminum stock around the upright and cut off a section. With a little corner filing, it fits in the depression just fine. Unfortunately, moving the lever/cam doesn't cause the aluminum piece to move. I'll try taking some modeling clay and taking an impression of the area around the cam. Hopefully, that'll tell me how to add something to the aluminum piece such that the cam will move it appropriately.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
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