The wire gets wedged. I had not done it before but it was simple
I cannot recall where I bought the wire and fittings.
I first took apart the existing and it became obvious
Sailboat rigging perhaps, not cheap, but good quality
The wire gets wedged. I had not done it before but it was simple
I cannot recall where I bought the wire and fittings.
I first took apart the existing and it became obvious
Sailboat rigging perhaps, not cheap, but good quality
Tin Can
Ok. Doesn't look too bad. Cut cable with a cold chisel, using electrical tape to keep from fraying. Insert through fitting. Clamp cable in vice, and tap in wedge. One cable looks 1/8th, whereas the other looks 1/16th. I'll replace the latter. Decided to strip the paint on the columns. Stripper is on, and I'll go back tomorrow morning to remove.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Those look great Peter! Really nice job. I would think that leather would be a longer lasting solution than felt.
Anyhow, can you share the cable parts you are using? I have only used bolt on or cramp on sleeves, but it sounds to me like you and Randy are using something else.
I can take some pictures tomorrow. Basically, what came with my stand are older versions of this: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste...1X0D4F4VM2YH1M
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Here is the exact wire and source, same price as 2013
Loos Stainless Steel 302/304 Wire Rope, 1x19 Strand, 1/8" Bare OD, 25' Length, 2100 lbs Breaking Strength
I think I bought the ends from McMaster, they are now blocking direct links to their products. "Eye-End Plug-Lock Wire Rope End Fittings—For Lifting" which can be found on this page https://www.mcmaster.com/wire-rope-fittings
This is all overkill, considering the bolt and aluminum casting is far weaker.
Still I don't want to ever have what I did fail. Which is why I took the pic of me underneath the platform right after installing new wire 2013.
Notice the scrapped paint a cover up with Big Magic marker hides it well, for a while.
I most likely cut the wire with a Dremel and cut off wheel, these cut almost anything. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
SS wire and Thimble by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
1-Deardorff S11 Just set up by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr
Tin Can
You can use a cold chisel to cut the cable. See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzUhIlnvwZg
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Tin Can
Good tips. I plan on using a scrap piece of steel instead of my anvil.
How do these look?
https://www.amazon.com/Swageless-For...7&sr=8-33&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/SELIKOUR-Stai...608517&sr=8-21
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Tin Can
The swag-less connectors mentioned above just arrived. They fit on the carriage side of the cable, but the holes are too small for the hooks in the weight. I'll have to add a connector. The advantage of these connectors is the cable is attached by tightening a nut versus by pounding in a sliver of metal into the frayed cable.
I've got a few places to clean up yet on my columns, and then I'm going to spray them with Boeshield. If all goes well, I should have the carriage on the stand tomorrow.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
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