Rebuilding a Deardorff 11x14 Studio Stand

[Tin Can]

You are correct. my OE are 1-1/4"

Look here, maybe https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-us/all-products

Perhaps install a smaller insert in the OE female threads and you may find a smaller thread and foot

Rubber?

I used to have all my stuff on Slides, so I could change studio

The dual purpose works on heavy duty ceramic

Jason, I was wondering if you ever sourced proper size levelers that don't interfere with the wheels. All the options on McMaster for 5/8 thread posts are 2-1/2" and up. Those are too wide and will hit the wheels.
I'm actually thinking of just getting rubber caps for the ends of the posts.

Does anyone know the diameter of the original levelers? I can't imagine it could be more than 1-1/2"

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

No, I never found any that fit, but only looked at McMaster. My bases are also 1 1/4" and are made of some sort of metal. Let us know if you find anything better. Image attached of the original and the one I got at McMaster, which doesn't fit.

[Dustyman]

Here's a simple and inexpensive solution to lock the stand in place. Simple rubber cane tips. These fit a 5/8" post perfectly. Only $6.07 for all four from Amazon. Free shipping with Prime. They are just pressed onto the post. Nice firm fit.
My posts are a bit different in that they are threaded all the way to the bottom. Whatever feet that were originally on them were screwed on from the bottom, so I didn't have to remove anything. Like the OE feet, these rubber cane tips are 1-1/4" wide on the bottom, so they don't interfere with the wheels at all. Steel reinforced so the posts won't cut into the rubber on the bottom. Did I mention $6.07 ?
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No, I never found any that fit, but only looked at McMaster. My bases are also 1 1/4" and are made of some sort of metal. Let us know if you find anything better. Image attached of the original and the one I got at McMaster, which doesn't fit.

[Duolab123]

I had to add a bit of threads to my leveling screws, I have carpet, nice carpet, that I'm too lazy to tear up. The leveling screws didn't retract enough. My machinist friend let me borrow his die. I've never been so careful, I got out my Dad's can of 1940's vintage cutting oil.

[Dustyman]

The weather is getting warmer and my circle of friends are also now fully vaccinated and can help me move the stand from the garage to my studio. We'll be removing the legs to facilitate.

It appears that there are four bolts on each side of the base that are holding the legs in place. See attached picture. That it? Are there any surprises I should be aware of that aren't obvious? I want to keep the posts connected to the platform to maintain rigidity. It's just the legs I want to remove. We'll first slide some 4x4's under the platform first to jack it up slightly.

Thanks for your input.

All we want is success and pictures when ready

You can remove the legs from the base, I have done that myself with two 2x4s as jack, one as fulcrum point. stand on the other, one comes off and it still stands up, then carefully balance it upright and take off the other. It will still stand up, but I got another person to help lay it down

think about those weights

The top pulley caps are aluminum as are the platform slides, with tiny bolts screwed into aluminum...

Saltzman are way heavier duty

[Tin Can]

The 4 bolts on each leg is it.

As I already wrote one can be removed and it still be stable

HOWEVER I strongly recomend you do not leave the platform and 4 " pipes connected while moving it

The steel pipes are heavy and will shift, the THIN ALUMINUM is easily cracked, ruining everything!

Also mark all parts for direction and location. The pipes are TUNED to the base, meaning don't swap location

I worked on and moved heavy industrial machines most of my working life

If anybody falls on the stairs....

The weather is getting warmer and my circle of friends are also now fully vaccinated and can help me move the stand from the garage to my studio. We'll be removing the legs to facilitate.

It appears that there are four bolts on each side of the base that are holding the legs in place. See attached picture. That it? Are there any surprises I should be aware of that aren't obvious? I want to keep the posts connected to the platform to maintain rigidity. It's just the legs I want to remove. We'll first slide some 4x4's under the platform first to jack it up slightly.

Thanks for your input.

[Dustyman]

Thanks for the warning. The base and the collars that the pipes seat into are steel or cast iron, no? I know the top caps are aluminum.
My thoughts are if the platform remained attached the less likely any twisting will occur to the camera bed and geared mechanisms. Especially if we go super slow.
We'll be four guys, two for each end.

The 4 bolts on each leg is it.

As I already wrote one can be removed and it still be stable

HOWEVER I strongly recomend you do not leave the platform and 4 " pipes connected while moving it

The steel pipes are heavy and will shift, the THIN ALUMINUM is easily cracked, ruining everything!

Also mark all parts for direction and location. The pipes are TUNED to the base, meaning don't swap location

I worked on and moved heavy industrial machines most of my working life

If anybody falls on the stairs....

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

My approach has been to remove the camera, outrigger-legs, weights, caps and cables and move the remainder (platform, columns, and base) with the platform as close to the base as possible. I had three teenagers help me move it across a yard and it was fine, but not sure about moving down a stairs. I might want to take the columns off for that.

[Tin Can]

I think Dusty also needs to put the slides and platform back on 180 degrees to get the leg outriggers in the OE position

He could just switch outriggers, but these are all slightly different, the bolts fit snugly in mine

In my last pic I posted, I show a 3/4" socket sitting on a bolt, to remind of my second reassembly mistake!

I forced the bolt and it cross threaded.

Worse, that's my favorite antique Snap-On socket

we await success

[Duolab123]

I think Dusty also needs to put the slides and platform back on 180 degrees to get the leg outriggers in the OE position

He could just switch outriggers, but these are all slightly different, the bolts fit snugly in mine

In my last pic I posted, I show a 3/4" socket sitting on a bolt, to remind of my second reassembly mistake!

I forced the bolt and it cross threaded.

Worse, that's my favorite antique Snap-On socket

we await success

I agree. I took mine apart as I moved it all myself. Mine had the table on upside down and 180° off. Those lead weights are like a missile. Ready to break castings and more. My lead was bent by the guy before me. My friend who has "the knack" straightened them for me, saved me a massive headache. Those weights need to glide.