When EV is lower than the spot meter can handle

[Mako]

Hello,

my spot meter does not go beyond EV 1 so when photographing in very dim lighting it is of no use to me. I goes I could meter a higher zone, say V - which the meter can handle - but this does not guarantee that the shadows are rendered according to my previsualization (Zone II, or III), as this depends on the contrast range. Consequently the whole thing becomes a bit of a guesswork.

What I would like to know is if anyone out there has a a working procedure that gives me full control over the expected result.

Thank you

Mako

[Ralph Barker]

Try setting a higher ISO, and then compensate for that after taking your readings. Your meter will still respect you in the morning, even after having lied to it. ;-)

[Mako]

Ralph, it is my understanding that the EV is independent of the ISO - this is how my Pentax Spotmeter reacts anyway. Mako

[James E Galvin]

I think you have 3 choices: get a more sensitive meter, estimate, or bracket. Using Polaroid to meter (at the expected long exposure times) gets into reciprocity issues, the Polaroid likely showing more reciprocity failure than your film. And yes, adjusting the ISO doesn't change the meter sensitvity.

[Mark Sampson]

Mako, I'm sure you've noticed that in low light the Pentax meter takes a while to respond. Perhaps in very dim light you might be better off with an incident meter. And with reciprocity failure, your exposures will be even longer... so an educated guess and then double it might do as well as a spot reading. That's what I've done, and I've found that it takes a great deal of patience to overexpose when your exposure runs into minutes.

[Michael Gudzinowicz]

The procedure is called intuition based on experience, and if you're new to ambient darkness photography, you'll have to bracket. EV 1 implies exposures of a couple of minutes at f/22, and longer with reciprocity failure corrections and development decreased to correct for increased contrast. I'd
suggest metering off a white card, placing the value on zone VII, determine the base exposure and apply the reciprocity failure corrections. Then bracket, giving the second sheet of film at least 4X the exposure you thought was correct, and then adjust depelopment. For darker scenes, try one of the exposure tables such as that at www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm.

[Ralph]

Just curious: Does anyone make a really, really sensitive light meter (spot or incident) for use in extremely low light? Obviously some are more sensitive than others; I just wonder whether any committed night photographers (for example) have a particular meter to recommend.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Hi there,

Mako, use a roll film camera with the same film and a matching lens (uncoated, single coated, multi-coated), bracket your exposures and process for your N time. Keep good notes. Evaluate the negs when dry for exposure and any N+ time adjustments.

Have fun with it.

[medform-norm]

Have you tried a Gossen Profisix or LunaSix with a spot meter attachment or a Tele-Vorsats for 5% angle? These meters are very sensitive and go low in EV values: -7.
Or get a 35mm SLR that allows for low metering (maybe with a Booster), put a strong telelens on it with the angle you prefer and meter through that. Most modern SLR's use spot metering, after all.
HTH

[Wilbur Wong]

I own a Gossen Luna Pro SBC - it goes down to minus 4 EV. My spot meter is a minolta digital which stops at 1 EV. I think Sekonic's 558 goes down to minus 2EV?

The Luna Pro SBC has a viewing angle of 30 degrees, if the subject is close enough walk up to it to take meter readings.

I vaguely remember the last time I shot at very low light levels was maybe 10 years ago. I think I was having trouble focusing on the ground glass. . . never mind the light meter.