How do you convert a color negative after you scan it?

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Do you create a linear raw tiff and use ColorNeg, do it in PS or use some other method? What is your workflow?

I create linear raw tiffs and then use ColorNeg to convert them. Works really well although at times, it takes some effort on the more difficult negatives, like when you over/under expose, etc.

[jp]

In PS, I align the left and right extremes of R,B,G histogram range to the same spot horizontally on the histogram. makes your whites white and your blacks black and generally white balances well overall.

[Chester McCheeserton]

Do you create a linear raw tiff and use ColorNeg, do it in PS or use some other method? What is your workflow?

I create linear raw tiffs and then use ColorNeg to convert them. Works really well although at times, it takes some effort on the more difficult negatives, like when you over/under expose, etc.

What scanner and software are you using?

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I use V850, Vuescan and ColorNeg. I tried Epson scan and silverfast, not a fan of either.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

One thing I have been experimenting with is scanning at 6000dpi and scanning at 6400dpi and then doing a 2x2 bin. So far, the latter seems to be very comparable to a straight 6000dpi scan but at half the file size.

[Chester McCheeserton]

Well I can't convert you, and would gain nothing by trying. But here goes.

I use epson scan for my V700 quite happily, i think it can be super straightforward and allow for full manual control.

I would not ever scan a negative as a positive and then reverse it after and would respectfully posit that doing so might be a waste of time and energy, but by all means if you've got a system that works, keep rolling with it.

A link that I find useful if you're using an imacon:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVYtKI8s_fQ

this is basically how I would advocate for scanning, (whether flatbed, imacon, or drum) manually correcting the color and pulling out the histogram black and white points to make a flat, open scan. I'm with you on silverfast, but I'd encourage you to reconsider epsonscan if you're using an epson scanner for negatives.

I have seen tests that show an improvement in quality scanning chromes as negatives but never the the reverse.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I do not scan the negative as a positive and then convert it back. I scan it as a negative and it stays that way till I convert it to a positive. I scan negatives as what you see is what you get. There would be no point in scanning a negative as a positive and then converting it back. I played quite a bit with Epson scan and it is not suited for me. Plus, I want raw data, not a formula baked into the image at time of conversion. What I get would be no different than if I used a dslr to capture the negative except I get better results and it is easier to do than dslr scanning.

But if it works for you, who I am I to say otherwise. It is the end product that counts.

[Chester McCheeserton]

I scan negatives as what you see is what you get. What I get would be no different than if I used a dslr to capture the negative except I get better results and it is easier to do than dslr scanning.

If these 2 things are true, I think you are scanning the negative as a positive.

But indeed whatever works for you....

I guess my point which you and many others obviously do differently is that there should be no need to "convert" a scan made from a negative. in my opinion

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Nope, it is a negative scan not a positive converted to a negative I would recommend you email Ed at Hammrick and ask the question Also, read on ColorPerfect's website aboiut creating a linear raw scan for use by Colorneg.

I am confused by your last statement.. "no need to convert a scan made from a negative"? If I do a dslr scan of a negative, I get a negative that must be converted to color, If I scan on the Epson, regardless of model, it is capturing a negative, and the scan software does the conversion. If I do not allow the software to convert my negative and save a raw file (no gamma curve or a gamma curve of 1) then I simply have a raw, unconverted image that looks exactly like the negative the scan was made from.

Exactly how does the scanner, Vuescan, convert the negative scan to a positive, then convert it back to a negative and then save that?

[Chester McCheeserton]

Nope, it is a negative scan not a positive converted to a negative I would recommend you email Ed at Hammrick and ask the question Also, read on ColorPerfect's website aboiut creating a linear raw scan for use by Colorneg.

I am confused by your last statement.. "no need to convert a scan made from a negative"? If I do a dslr scan of a negative, I get a negative that must be converted to color, If I scan on the Epson, regardless of model, it is capturing a negative, and the scan software does the conversion. If I do not allow the software to convert my negative and save a raw file (no gamma curve or a gamma curve of 1) then I simply have a raw, unconverted image that looks exactly like the negative the scan was made from.

Exactly how does the scanner, Vuescan, convert the negative scan to a positive, then convert it back to a negative and then save that?

I guess it's a question of semantics. Yeah I'm voting for letting the software do the conversion. Whether it's epson scan, or any other software. I've never used Vue scan.

Peace – I'm out