Initial Results of testing Tmax100

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Set up

Black card for ZIII
White Card for ZVIII

Tmax100 shot at the following:

f/11 (iso 50)
f/13 (iso 64)
f/14 (iso 80)
f/16 (iso 100)

Tmax Dev at 1:8, 7;30, 68F, SP-445 tank, Kodak stop bat, fix and hypoclear, final 10 minute rinse, photoflo and hung to dry. Scanned using view scan at 1600dpi, exposure locked to 1, film base locked. Scanned as a b/w negative, 48bit rgb and saved that way. I went thru each possible scan scenario and none of them were any different from one another. However, the blue channel is somewhat boosted when scanning as color neg.

All for 1/2 sec. The black cards were metered at iso 50 and f/11 with ev7.0 then adjusted to ev 9.0. White cards were metered at iso 50 and f/11 with ev 10.6 then adjusted to ev 7.6. Here is the link to the linear raw scan files if anyone wants to measure them. I will post up my results from Vuescan shortly as well. I am sending the negatives out to a member this week who has kindly offered to measure them for me.

Once I have the densities, what do I do next? (how do I know what is zone iii density or zone viii?) I have been reading a lot and there doesn't seem to be one answer on this topic. Not looking for holy grail, but how to interpret these results.

Next question is thus, once I determine the film speed for the way I develop with Tmax dev, I meter the darkest shadows ( or the detail I want to be ZIII) and let the cards fall as they may elsewhere? I was recommended to shoot shadows for ZIII at a particular iso based on experience until the negatives are scanned and we can have a better answer. Going to Grand Canyon Toroweep next weekend, so want to be as close as I can for now.

https://flic.kr/s/aHsmGDo5nphttp://

[Drew Wiley]

You're testing out a Ferrari as if it were a Vespa scooter. Once your confidence gets better, design a test Zones 1 through 11, with deepest shadow texture being on Zone 1 at full box speed of 100.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I am just doing as instructed by another on this forum. That is all.

[Drew Wiley]

Placing shadows on Z3 using TMax is a great way to blow your highlights over the top. You got generic advice that was bad even in Model T days. But there might be enough haze in the Grand Can to get away with it due to lowered contrast, at least from the South Rim. Hard to say. Depends on any storms clearing the air. Gotta start somewhere and improve the learning curve from there. I never bracket. But being new to this film, you might want to waste a few sheets of film doing that, and then compare the results.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

True. I am going to northwest portion called Toroweep. It is at 4000 foot elevation sometimes moderate haze, but being Monsoon season, I am hoping for drama. I don't mind bracketing. The idea was to rate the film speed, ie most have found Tmax to be slower than advertised from everything I have read so far. As you pointed I am new still. Only couple of years into large format and been a bit hit or miss. I know for sure that using zone 5 to place shadows in doesn't work so well. Seem to miss highlights by at least two stops. This another learning curve to get past. Anyone who says black and white is easy hasn't tried it.

[Peter De Smidt]

The black card will be measured to see which Zone I will give at least 0.1 above fb+f. That gives your EI. The white card exposed at that EI will be measured to see if it was developed appropriately. Either it will be, or it won't. If it is, then you're all set. If it's not, then a time adjustment will be estimated. Nothing useful can be done until the negatives are measured.

Exposure predominately determines shadow detail. Development mostly affects contrast and maximum density. You want to expose enough that you have the shadow tonality that you want, and develop just enough to get the tonality you want in the rest of the range.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Ok. I will post up my numbers tonight. I am sure they will not be as acurate as a densitometer, but can give an idea to see what needs to be done. I wish I had learned this when I was young.

[Drew Wiley]

TMax (either speed) does seem to have a bit stiffer learning curve than more forgiving films with more toe, but in the long run the extra effort is worth it, especially in the desert or mountains where lighting ratios can be extreme. Just be aware that pinkish Navajo sandstone etc might come out lighter than you had wished. A good thing to have along is a deep green filter. This will darken blue skies to bring out the clouds, and at the same time, somewhat tame reddish rocks. I'm sure you'll come back with something nice. All of us have our old war wounds from our early learning curve, yet are also constantly learning new things too. The challenge in itself is rewarding.

[Tin Can]

I downloaded your 8 tests on Flickr.

I am not the expert here, but I am following http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/testing.php

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Cool. I follow Ken as well. Still working to make my results presentable.