5x8 Camera Build

[Michael Roberts]

For several years, I have been considering building a 5x8 camera. I prefer the Golden Ratio to 80% or even 70%, i.e., 4x5, 5x7. Also, cutting 8x10 film to 5x8 offers more emulsion options than 5x7 (without wasting scrap film). Another draw is the potential for creating an extremely lightweight camera (close to 2lbs) with enough film area to print mural-size. The disadvantage, of course, is the dearth of available film and holders already in 5x8. No matter. Three years ago, I started ripping and chopping mahogany to build a 5x8 using the same design as my earlier 7x11 build (https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1495465).

Finally, about six weeks ago, I had the time to get serious about this project. I have just finished fabricating all the wooden parts. I will document the build from this point forward. I will post more pics in the next day or so, between breaks in clearing the foot of snow we got yesterday.

Last month, I placed an order with Chamonix for five holders. They arrived within a week! Beautifully crafted and each in its own protective envelope. Quite pricey, but I figure I'm saving $2,500 on the camera (i.e., I'm not too proud to resort to girl math when it serves my photographic purposes ).

I'm happy to share measurements, process, materials info, etc., if anyone is interested in building a similar camera.

Comments are welcome!

Best,
Michael

[Michael Roberts]

some pics of the camera base...

Most of the wood is 1/4 mahogany. I bought this in 3" wide by 24" long planks and ripped what I needed on a table saw and chopped it on a 10" mitre saw. The base is glued-together planks. The upright bracket is 1/8" plywood. The threaded studs are right angle weld studs, epoxied and screwed into routed-out holes. These studs will be used to lock down the sliding rail.

[Michael Roberts]

the extension rail, composed of two layers of 1/4" mahogany, glued together with wood glue, and with overlapping joints, i.e., the base layer has longer sides and the top layer has longer cross pieces.

The rail has two weld nuts, front and rear, recessed, epoxied and screwed into place. These will be used to secure the front standard, as needed for shorter or longer focal length lenses. I routed slots in the underside of the rail to clear the tripod socket in the camera base.

[Michael Roberts]

the front standard

I have a hand-held router, so my slots are a bit sloppy. I have to tilt the plunge bit into the wood to get started with the slot. Not the neatest cut, but it's functional.

I had a deuce of a time getting the lens board frame the correct width. Needed to leave 1/16th clearance plus a bit more on each side for the right-angle weld stud. I wound up gluing additional strips to the lens board sides--twice!--to get the correct spacing. So much for multi-tasking.

The camera will have one set of knobs to control both front rise/fall and front tilt. I know a lot of forum members have a strong preference for two sets of knobs, one for each movement, but I've gotten use to only having one set so it doesn't bother me and it simplifies the design and build.

One of my favorite quotes from Thoreau is: "Simplify! Simplify! Simplify!"

[Michael Roberts]

the lens board frame

These right-angle weld studs are expoxied and screwed into place.

[Michael Roberts]

the spring back

Even though I'm building a light-weight camera, I put in a 1/4 light trap. I hate light leaks.
I will add felt to the film holder channel to prevent leaks around the holders.

[Michael Roberts]

ground glass frame

This is built up using precut craft wood. 1/8" base layer then 3/32" to get to the correct T-depth for the holders, then another 1/16 layer and a top coat of mahogany veneer.

[Michael Roberts]

the rear frame

[Michael Roberts]

the rear braces

I used plywood braces for my 7x11 build five years ago and they've worked fine, so should be a piece of cake on this smaller, lighter camera. These are not load bearing, so no need for heavy-duty material.
Again, right-angle weld nuts epoxied and screwed down.
The other ends will be attached with screw-in rivets.

[Michael Roberts]

all the parts