Nikkor M 450 F9 - Question

[Rscaboy]

Hi,

I think that the picture pasted by pepeguitarra concerning the lens and the Intrepid 8x10 MII are selfspeaking...At least for me :-)

To start my 8x10 journey stand-up portrait are also fine for me.....(And if I really need very closer one I can always use my D850 and my Nikkor 105 1.4E)

[Drew Wiley]

I personally wouldn't want any lens in a no.3 or heavier shutter on a very lightweight front standard like that at long extension, although I wouldn't hesitate to put a 450M on my own 8x10. The tiny tripod head amplifies any wicked voodoo vibrations. It all looks way way too flimsy for my idea of reliable 8x10 work.

[Pere Casals]

I personally wouldn't want any lens in a no.3 or heavier shutter on a very lightweight front standard like that at long extension, although I wouldn't hesitate to put a 450M on my own 8x10. The tiny tripod head amplifies any wicked voodoo vibrations. It all looks way way too flimsy for my idea of reliable 8x10 work.

Drew, if the 810 Intrepid is not able to take 640grs (with the copal 3 included) then better if they stop making 8x10 cameras, what 810 cannot take 640grs ?

[Eric Leppanen]

If needed there are various ways to brace the front standard of a lightweight camera to dampen shutter vibration. Connecting a large rubber band between the bottom of the front standard and the hook under the center column of your tripod (assuming it has one) can help. A sturdier option is to use a long lens support arm such as a Manfrotto 3252 or 359.

https://www.adorama.com/bg3591.html?br=1

I regularly used one of these to support 600mm and telephoto lenses on my 8x10 cameras. They appear periodically on the used market.

[Pere Casals]

to brace the front standard of a lightweight camera to dampen shutter vibration. Connecting a large rubber band between the bottom of the front standard and

Eric, that Manfrotto 359 is really nice ! I was not aware that it existed...


I used a bare monopod for that, instead making it rest directly on the ground, not as an elegant solution, but it also works, sparing a second tripod in some challenging situations.

[Drew Wiley]

As usual, Pere, you're all spin. I hear stuff like this all the time, and how this or that works perfectly well for someone. Then they try to prove it with some web image the size of a postage stamp. But some of us like to print a lot bigger than a postage stamp and expect precise results, not a ball of fuzz inspecting film under the loupe. Sure, some kind of supplementary bracing system could be used like Eric suggests. But there goes the whole idea of a cumulative lightweight simplified system. Kinda counterproductive. I shouldn't even need to comment on how ridiculous a center column is for 8x10 work. I wouldn't use one even for 4x5, even for MF. Get a real tripod instead of a toy.

[Pere Casals]

As usual, Pere, you're all spin. I hear stuff like this all the time, and how this or that works perfectly well for someone. Then they try to prove it with some web image the size of a postage stamp. But some of us like to print a lot bigger than a postage stamp and expect precise results, not a ball of fuzz inspecting film under the loupe. Sure, some kind of supplementary bracing system could be used like Eric suggests. But there goes the whole idea of a cumulative lightweight simplified system. Kinda counterproductive. I shouldn't even need to comment on how ridiculous a center column is for 8x10 work. I wouldn't use one even for 4x5, even for MF. Get a real tripod instead of a toy.

Drew, don't get angry. Let me explain you that I use a Bilora and a Manfrotto heavy duty tripods, the Bilora in particular is a tiger tank, but anyway a Monopod is very useful to stabilize some 8x10 setups, sometimes I stabilized this setup with the monopod in the front, with perfect results, sparing a second tripod:



https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592...5/27823423611/

I drilled and TIG welded a nut at the end of the stainless steel square pipe to attach the monopod there.


Those tripods are quite heavy and I lack intermediate tripods, beyond those I only have light tripods, so when I carry the light tripod for 4x5 I stabilize it with the monopod, also with perfect results. I reiterate that this solution is not as elegant as the 3252/359, by far, but I can tell you that it works perfectly and adds little weight to haul around.

[pepeguitarra]

The Nikkor 450/2 is one of the smallest 450mm lenses. Here it is on the 4x5 Chamonix F2. I put a second tripod in case it was needed. It wasn't, but I left it any way. It would support the setup in case of a vibration happens.

Chamonix 45F-2 Nikkor-M 450mm f/9 by Palenquero Photography, on Flickr

[Drew Wiley]

Sorry. Yes, I'm a bit grumpy this afternoon, for no reason other than I'm a bit tired doing endless cleaning of equipment after a trip. In your case, you don't even need a fancy dedicated stabilizer. A basic rectangular wooden stick and a couple of spring clamps would do the same thing. Unfortunately, I can't post a picture of my way of doing it. But, based on a lot of testing with long lenses and big enlargements, it's based on bolting the camera base right to the top of a substantial tripod platform top with no intervening weak point. Basic torque vector physics. With long monorails or even long heavy MF telephoto lenses, I use a long hardwood bar attached at two points to the rail or lens, then bolt that directly to a platform top. In those instances when my big Ries wooden tripod might be
too heavy, I resort to a modified large carbon fiber tripod that functionally has a platform top too. Big shutters vary in vibration. The worst were no.3 Compurs. They had a palpable buzz to them. But many studios used camera stands and high-speed flash; and Compurs tended to be correct at their highest speeds, while Copals didn't. I never used flash in portraiture, but either natural light or classic hot lights like Arri fresnels.

[Drew Wiley]

Pepeguitarra - The Nikkor 450 is an elephant compared to the Fuji 450C, which is in a no.1 shutter. But I suspect the Nikkor M might have nicer rendering for portraiture per se. An alternative popular among portrait studios was the Fuji 420L, an older thick tessar, single-coated and rather heavy, which was less harsh-edged than either of the above. I often use the Fuji 450 C dialyte for landscape shots in both 8x10 and 4x5, but would like a 450M Nikkor too. It's the only focal length of Nikkor M I don't own yet.