Lightleak or development issue?

[howlingsun]

Hi

New to LF and developing in general. My first 3 frames have all got a brighter area in one side / corner of the negative. Can you help me understand if it is a problem with a light leak or with the development. I can see it clearly in the border. Not sure how a light leak could get into the border of the negative so I suspect a development issue, but I am really inexperienced so not sure.

It is not a scanning problem (scanned with digital camera) since I see the difference in the negative also.

Chamonix 4x5 camera
Rodenstock 150mm lens
Toyo film holder
Kodak TMAX100
Ilford DD-X 1+4 @ 20c
7min Development according to massive dev chart app.
Ilford stop
Ilford fix
Paterson tank with mod 54
1l of each of the fluids


Example 1 and 2 was taken and developed together while example 3 several days later and developed separately, although with same method. I am certain that 1 and 2 was in one Toyo holder and 3 in a different one.







Any help would be greatly appreciated!
/ Klas

[pau3]

Have you checked for pinholes on the bellows?

Best,
Pau

[howlingsun]

Have you checked for pinholes on the bellows?

Best,
Pau

I have checked the corner that is bright with and without the holder mostly. I will check the bellows more

[jim_jm]

I'm thinking it's more a processing issue than a light leak. If a light leak, this looks more like the cause is the holder rather than the bellows. It's very subtle, so maybe check the tape on the holder hinge (if it is taped) as this appears to be the area it's occurring. If it's your processing, maybe the film was unevenly developed in your tank.

[paulbarden]

Uneven development isn’t going to create density in unexposed areas. This is a light leak from somewhere, and it’s mostly happening at the dark slide end of the holder.

[Jerry Bodine]

...This is a light leak from somewhere, and it’s mostly happening at the dark slide end of the holder.

+1. But since there are two different holders used and the problem persists, I suspect a technique issue; it's not unusual, especially with beginners, that pulling the darkslide without pinching the groundglass frame to the camera back with thumb and forefinger can cause a momentary gap, thus permitting a light leak during the initial part of the darkslide withdrawal. Many of us also have learned to cover the holder with the darkcloth when withdrawing/inserting the darkslide. It's a good habit to form.

[howlingsun]

Thanks for the replies!
I put the notched corner of the negative towards the hinge part of the holder.
Since the black frame around the negative is affected I think I will need to check the holders also? How could light from a leak get to that area of the negative? Perhaps there is some leak around the hinge?

I will try and improve the technique I use when removing the dark slide and I will also check the bellows to make sure they are ok.

/ Klas

[howlingsun]

Could a light leak caused by me when I remove the dark slide hit the other side? See my fancy sketch.

[Jerry Bodine]

Could a light leak caused by me when I remove the dark slide hit the other side? See my fancy sketch.

Withdrawing the darkslide should be done without exerting any force perpendicular to the plane of the groundglass, which could create a gap between the holder and the camera back. If the withdrawal is done quickly/carelessly, the darkslide may still be "closed" (protecting the film from exposure) when the gap is created, but as the darkslide is then withdrawn quickly the film's exposure would start at the flap end and progress across the film during withdrawal. The gap would be closing as this all happens (since the perpendicular force is diminishing as the withdrawal progresses). The gap would likely be closed before withdrawal is complete.

The camera's springs that press the holder to the camera can sometimes weaken with age, thereby allowing gaps to occur more easily during withdrawal. So all the more important to get technique controlled. Hope this helps.

[Doremus Scudder]

Since the rebate of the film is exposed, I believe that the light strike is happening when the film is out of the holder. The rebate rails cover the film and hide it from light strikes in-camera (or exposing the film normally would expose the rebate too...). I'd have a look at your development tank for cracks, missing seals, whatever that might cause a light leak. Also check your film-loading/unloading environment (darkroom/changing bag) for stray light and leaks.

Yes, pulling the back away from the camera body when pulling/inserting the darkslide is a common cause of light strikes, but the exposed rebate tends to rule that out in this case. (Do pinch back and camera body together with your free hand when pulling and inserting the darkslide, however!)

Lastly, check your holders for cracks along the side seams. I had a few that leaked that way; letting light in right at the side of the film. Toyo holders are pretty well-built, however.

By the way, the flap on film holders will not leak light as long as it is closed and the darkslide inserted. The condition of the tape is irrelevant; it is only there as a hinge. The design of the flap has baffles that make it light-tight when closed unless the flap itself is damaged or warped. The myth that faulty or missing hinge tape causes light leaks is rather prevalent here, but false.

Best,

Doremus