With three finish coats of glossy poly:
With three finish coats of glossy poly:
Just need to add the ground glass and hardware, and a few other touches (black adhesive felt in the film holder channel, a touch of flat black paint in a couple of places on the spring back, etc.)....
(The milky reflections in the last pic are from a sunlit window, not the finish.)
makin' progress...
got the film holder channel lined with black adhesive felt
cut, filed, polished, and clear coated the brass hardware
drilled it for screw holes
drilled pilot holes
got the hardware mounted...spring back pins and clips, ground glass frame springs, brass keeper for the front panel/front box, handle brackets
cut a leather handle and mounted with brass handle brackets....
whew, I'd forgotten how many little details go into this...
next up: acrylic ground glass, add more adhesive felt to the main camera body for the spring back light trap/rabbet, finish a lens board and front panel for the new (to me) 110mm Wolly, add a light trap to the front box for the 159mm Wolly, fabricate eleven small wooden swivel tabs for the main body (3), front box (4), and front panel (4), plus whatever else needs tweaking.
My brilliant wife suggested that instead of attaching the 4x10 splitter board (to block light from the half of the film sheet I do not want to expose) to the inside of the spring back (and move it between shots when reversing the spring back to expose the other half of the film as I normally do on 8x10), I should just permanently affix it to the inside of the main camera body. That will eliminate one (of two, i.e., 50% of the things to remember) steps between exposures. Why didn't I think of that? So now I need to figure out how to do that and make sure the splitter is relatively tight against the film holder to avoid light leakage onto the already-exposed or non-exposed side of the film. Shouldn't be too difficult....I've already fabricated the splitter, so I may need to make it a bit thicker. We'll see.
Last edited by Michael Roberts; 12-Sep-2019 at 09:29.
Extension lens board adapter for 240mm G-Claron.
I've been using this adapter for years with my 8x10. The 8x10 only has 24" max bellows extension, so this helps me use a 24" lens without straining the bellows to the max.
It just happens to be the exact length to adapt the 240mm G onto the 159mm front box (so the theory goes, testing will tell the tale).
Just back from a 2+ week fall color trip to Jackson Hole and the San Juan Mountains in southern Colorado.
I managed to finish the fabrication for the 4x10 wire viewer and for mounting the f12.5 159mm Wollensak Ex. W.A. lens before the trip--had to recess the lens board mount 1/8th inch to get the hyperfocal distance spot on. This required drilling a 3 1/8" hole in a 4.25" lens board and mounting a 4" board with a 2 1/8" hole behind it.
Using this camera was great fun on this trip. My first two 4x10 shots were handheld from the back of Jackson Lake Lodge overlooking Willow Flats in late afternoon golden light (f22 at 1/50). Then I made two more the next afternoon, on tripod, down at the Blacktail Ponds overlook.
The pics below were made on the San Juan Skyway outside Telluride, near Lizard Head Pass. Like most LF cameras in this digital world, the camera drew a lot of attention and questions.
Last edited by Michael Roberts; 21-Oct-2019 at 11:16.
Very cool!
And your hat doesn't get in the way with point and shoot
I wear a lot of hats...they do blow away
Tin Can
Ha! Yes, I managed to come home with my hat this trip. I nearly lost one in June while shooting a 4x5 Crown Graphic handheld up on Donner Pass--wind must have been 50mph. Took my ball cap off and I went over the safety wall to retrieve it. Fortunately there was a wide rock ledge on the other side.
What a great camera and wonderful build.
Could you post a picture with the various lenses fitted, would be interested to see.
I just finish building a 14x17 with a sliding internal box to focus different lenses, yours might be a better option for field work.
Congratulations on this camera, it is quite something. I used to have a "point and shoot" Fotoman with a 121 Super Angulon and a 90 f/5.6 Super angulon (more of a 4x8). I sold these and got a 4x10 back from China to use on my Linhof Kardan TL.
Thanks awty. Will do. Getting the 110 Wolly fitted has been giving me fits, but I think I’ve got it cornered now. Likewise, my extended lens board for the 240 G-Claron appears to be 1/4” too long. Now that this fall trip is behind me I am hoping to get these other two lenses mounted in the next couple of days.
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