A simple jig with a 1/8 milling bit in a slightly larger hole leaving about 1-2mm of the bit exposed.
The flat bits to the right sit on their edge taking up the cut space + 1mm.
I choose the combination by moving the pieces from one side to the other in order to get the required position.
The nuts are so the flap stays level when it is open, they go under the flap each side about half an inch from the bit.
Slide it in, open the flap onto the nuts and apply a little gentle pressure.
I notch using a straight wire clipper, cutting out a V, and I use binary.
Always starting on the far side from the film notches, I have a spacer that I made up with equally spaced notch locations.
Location Meaning
1st registration
2nd A/B (notch means B side of holder)
3rd 1
4th 2
5 4
6 8
7 16
I can expand if I ever have more than 31 of a particular format. You add up all the numbers, and use the A/B to determine which record goes with the negative. I have a piece of tape on my lightbox with the same coding and spacing so I line the negative up with the registration line and voila. Works on about 90% of my negatives, but really dark ones are a problem.
I started doing this because I generate a lot of negatives while traveling and develop up to 24 at a time.
Disfiguring a perfectly good film holder holds preference over taking good field notes and allowing an attached sticky note to drive the bus -ie identify the holder with the negative and stay connected with it in the paper archival sleeve it calls home? What am I missing?
Or enhancing perfectly good film holders. Whatever floats one's boat. The rebate of the film is part of my image, so I prefer not to add any other markings. If one sticks to 4x5, I believe there are holders with rotating numbers that get exposed onto the rebate. I can see where such markings would be handy if one does a lot of testing, which I do not.Originally Posted by Michael Kadillak
"Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China
The grafmatics have such a wheel, but it intrudes into the image area. I removed them on most of my grafmatics. Plus they do not identify the holder, just the sheet.
My Lisco Mark II 5x4 holders have two rotating numbers, one at each side of the opening flap.
Each rotating indicator has 0-9, so marking up to 100 sides or 50 holders.
They're handy, but not a panacea since the framing of the shot can negate the visibility of the numbers.
Mike
Mine are all notched with that binary thing. I think Ralph Lambrecht had it in his book? Can't remember where I first heard about it. I just used a v shaped file and cleaned the edges up with a knife. I prefer the info outside of the image. All my Grafmatics have had the number wheel removed, usually by a pair of pliers.
Because no one else has mentioned it, another approach, rather than cutting notches is to drill small holes in the rebate. Accomplishes the same purpose, and all you need is a small drill bit for the power drills that most of us have in our tool kits at home..
I know this is a stale thread, but I toyed with this with plastic film holders. Now with some wood Chamonix, I'm concerned with damaging them. Seems most folks are doing this on the end flap (is this called the "rebate"?). Anyone tried drilling delicate holes along the side in a similar fashion? or is that even riskier? Appreciate some feed back. Thanks!
Skip,
I think the mention of drilling holes in the "rebate" refers to drilling tiny holes in the rails that hold the film down on the sides. This would result in dots of density in the film rebate. Others notch the film flap (like me). Over the years I've discovered that you only need to notch the inside edge of the flap, i.e., inside from where the dark slide seats.
Hope this helps,
Doremus
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks