Technique: leaf Shutter and strobe

[Bernice Loui]

No, Incident light meters measure source of light to the subject. Minolta had two different diffusors for their incident light meters, one is a done the other is flat.

If your belief of incident light meter is specifically designed to measure light as the lens-camera-film would capture it, why the two different diffusors (dome and flat) for Minolta incident light meters?

Have you looked at and fully understood what is written in the Minolta incident light meter instruction manual and understood why the light meter head rotates?
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/CAM...meter_iv_f.pdf



If you're sure of how this works, check this out... unless you're picking to "play" again.. which there is zero interest. Spreading mis-information is not tolerable.


Bernice

Incident light meters are designed to measure the light hitting the subject as seen from the camera position, taking in all the lights, fill cards and reflectors. I often used a strong, raking backlight or feather the strobe, the subject just catching the edge of the light and that would give me bad readings if the meter were pointed directly at the source.

[Peter De Smidt]

Setting exposure and setting lighting ratios are two different things. As per the Minolta manual:

[Bernice Loui]

Size and type and number of light source(s)?

-Does that make a difference in incident light meter head position?


Bernice

[Pieter]

I worked as an art director for over 40 years, attending photo shoots with top professional photographers and cinematographers whose livelihoods depend on delivering artistic and technically excellent images. Unless they (or their assistants) were measuring light ratios, they all used the incident meter the way I have described: from the subject's position, dome facing the camera.

[Duolab123]

I worked as an art director for over 40 years, attending photo shoots with top professional photographers and cinematographers whose livelihoods depend on delivering artistic and technically excellent images. Unless they (or their assistants) were measuring light ratios, they all used the incident meter the way I have described: from the subject's position, dome facing the camera.

I'm no pro by any means. I've been using these meters with Photogenic flash and nice old stands for decades. I have the flat diffuser, I very rarely use it for flash exposure. If I am doing a black and white portrait and want some dramatic ratio, I will use the flat disc.
I remember the first time I used a old Wein plastic box flash meter in high school (1973). I was taking a friend's family portraits . I had borrowed a couple flashes. I'm pretty sure I had one of the subjects hold the magic box. It worked perfectly.
I found a like new Wein meter a couple years back bought it for 10 bucks. It's set at 1 ASA with the little dome and the toggle switch. :-) life was simpler then.

[Sasquatchian]

In addition to the metering information here, there are many times where, even though your leaf shutter *will* sync at any shutter speed, it will give you inaccurate in camera exposures when the flash duration is longer than the shutter speed. Most low powered flashes that people are using these days are not a problem but anyone using the old Speedo Black Line have to be aware that the flash duration at full power was 1/200th of a second. Shoot at 1/500th with one of those and you have an underexposure problem no matter what you meter is telling you. I shot decades of flash sync'd to Copal shutters on 4x5 and to the RZ leaf shutters - up to 1/500th and 1/400th respectively with no issues ever, but the strobes I was using then and still, have a 1/400th duration at full power. And back then we shot a lot at full power, and all too often multiple pops on product shots.