NOOB Question About Starter LF Cameras

[gearhed]

Hello everyone,

I am brand new to LF cameras and this forum so PLEASE go easy.

I have been looking at this hobby for many years and after my wife passed, I figured I would pick up this hobby to pass the time. I know a little
about the cameras but I am looking for the absolute beginners LF camera. Not really the cheapest, just a well documented LF camera with plenty of parts available and upgrades as well. Kind of the workhorse of LF cameras.

I don't intend to spark a debate by any means and all models are welcome. Just friendly input on a camera that fits the following criteria.

1. At least 4X5
2. Does black and white (probably all)
3. A camera lens recommendation that will not distort the image at all (like fish eye or anything with zero distortion) +
4. Has a rail system to mount for moving the camera closer to the subject
5. Readily available

Thanks for taking the time to read this. If I have misplaced this post, feel free to delete or move it to the correct topic section. Again, thanks and I hope this question is not too broad. I guess I am looking for the perfect starter based on the criteria above. All opinions are welcome.

Thanks!

[Vaughn]

Sinar Norma...a professional-grade camera. Can be upgraded from 4x5 to 5x7 and 8x10

lenses -- a large variety to choose from! All modern lenses will suit fine -- it will depend on your plans of use...wide, normal or long lenses. Close-ups or not.

If you had wanted to take the camera into the field (non-rail), then I would have suggested a Deardorff Special (4x5 with the possibilty of using a 5x7 back).

[Luis-F-S]

If you want a monorail camera, it's hard to beat the Sinar F2. Readily available, and easier to find and less costly than a Norma. I've bought 2 through this forum for under $400 ea. Parts are readily available used. With any camera, if you want to move closer to the subject, you move the tripod!

Lens, any 210 in a modern Copal shutter. The best bang for the buck is probably a 210 Caltar. You should be able to find this for around $200 or less.

L

[Bob Salomon]

If you want a monorail camera, it's hard to beat the Sinar F2. Readily available, and easier to find and less costly than a Norma. I've bought 2 through this forum for under $400 ea. Parts are readily available used. With any camera, if you want to move closer to the subject, you move the tripod! L

You move the tripod closer only if you have enough bellows to focus at closer distances!

[Larry Gebhardt]

What do you want to shoot? Portraits, landscape, macro, still life, action?

[Peter Lewin]

If you want a monorail camera, it's hard to beat the Sinar F2. Readily available, and easier to find and less costly than a Norma. I've bought 2 through this forum for under $400 ea. Parts are readily available used. With any camera, if you want to move closer to the subject, you move the tripod!

Lens, any 210 in a modern Copal shutter. The best bang for the buck is probably a 210 Caltar. You should be able to find this for around $200 or less.

L

I will second this suggestion. While Sinar Normas are wonderful, they are not that easy to find. My first view camera was a Sinar F, over the years Sinar made minor improvements with the F1 and F2 models, but any of the F models makes an excellent first (and maybe even last) 4x5. Almost all Sinar parts are interchangeable (which is why its called the "Sinar System") and relatively easy to find.

I would expand the first lens suggestions to anything from 150mm to 210mm. My first lens was a Congo 180mm, an expensive Japanese lens rebranded at the time by Olden Camera in NYC. My second was a 210 Schneider Symmar-S, because that is what Fred Picker, an "LF Guru" in the 1970s & 80s recommended. But the lens I use 80% of the time is my 150mm. One approach is to see what your favorite lens is in 35mm or whatever camera you use the most, and then find the 4x5 equivalent in any of the charts you can find on the internet.

[rdeloe]

I had similar needs and went with a Toyo D45M. It was a serious pro camera in its day and it's not that heavy (a bit to a lot lighter than the later Toyo rail cameras). There's one for sale on the big auction site in pieces for very little; the seller doesn't know what he has. PM me and I'll point you in the right direction.

P.S. The other suggestions are great too. There are loads of good options available.

[Bernice Loui]

Sinar Norma's are wonderful cameras if they are in good condition and proper working order. Majority of them are decades old and have never been serviced properly. They have appeared on eBay as a system for $200_ish with lenses, case and etc. IMO, these are an absolute bargain in every way. For any Sinar Norma like this, add the cost of cleaning, lube, adjust. Long as the Norma has not been seriously damaged, it can be made as new. When proper they are an absolute joy to use, beauty to observe and not just a view camera it is a Sinar system that is compatible from Norma to Sinar P series.

Alternative would be to get a Sinar F, F1, F2 in good condition. These cost slightly less and are easy to find as they were made for about three decades and Sinar sold a LOT of them.

Formats are interchangeable as part of the Sinar system. Once the basic modules are available film formats from 4x5 to 8x10 can be done with format changing sets. Does not stop here, for the Sinar P, it is possible to make up other film formats by using a Sinar P rear and the target film format back and custom bellows to make up cameras like 8x20 and similar.

Bellows can be from bag bellows which allows using short focal length wide angle lenses with minimal grief to over 1000mm lenses by adding bellows, rails and supporting accessory standards (essentially a basic Sinar F standard or Norma accessory standard). Barrel lenses can be used with ease by mounting the barrel lens of choice to a Sinar lens board and adding a Sinar shutter.

As for lenses, most any optic within the physical constraints of the Sinar's lens board can be used.

Sinar as a system has the least constraints and most flexible and expandable view camera made. The concept is to remove as many camera related constraint and limitations to achieve an image in mind.


Starting out, suggest a modern f5.6 Plasmat of 135mm to 210mm focal length from Schneider, Fujinon, Rodenstock, Nikkor in a Copal, Seiko or similar modern shutter. First lens must have a accurate and reliable shutter as it is difficult enough to go up the learning curve with good working gear. If the shutter & lens produces grief, this will significantly hamper the learning process and can increase frustration.

Camera, lens and related accessories is just the beginning. There are film holders, film, film processing and the rest of this process to produce a print. all these items and steps of the process must be considered as it is a system, not just a camera.


Bernice

[Two23]

There are two ways to go. One is a monorail, which are generally used in studios because they are somewhat bulky and slower to set up. They also have more lens movements. These are good for portraits, table top shooting (still life, product photos), and macro (such as flowers etc.) The other choice is a field camera. These are lighter/compact to make them easier to hike with or use on location outdoors. Here's a photo of each kind:

http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/cameras/45n1classic

https://www.catlabs.info/product/cambo-sc-4x5

You need to start with what kind of camera, then we go from there. I'll add that 4x5 is a good choice to start.


Kent in SD

[Jim Jones]

A first LF camera will likely not be the last one. I started out in 1964 with an ancient Speed Graphic, then a New Vue, then a Burke & James flatbed (which I used for many years), then a Burke & James monorail, a Graphic view, an Anba Ikeda field camera, and other press cameras. A later Speed Graphic or Crown Graphic is still a fine camera for some photography. Even the New Vue with an appropriate lens would take almost any of the 4x5 photos I ever shot. The Anba Ikeda was the lightest and prettiest. Obviously there were view cameras with some better features and finer build quality, but they produce no better photographs. One important consideration: used LF cameras often come with lenses which lack the covering power for full use of front movements. Getting a good book that covers view cameras before shopping for the camera may save money.