Lubricant for lens thread

[Tin Can]

Not a huge fan of teflon for many applications. Great for a camping fry pan!

Watch makers and repair folk do have it all figured out.

https://www.esslinger.com/oils-and-lubricants-1/

[BrianShaw]

Pere... how does one determine if a commercial dry Teflon product is polarized or not. I’ve been using Finish Line (and quite satisfied) but packaging doesn’t give a clue.

[Ron (Netherlands)]

If the threads (and the rest of the objective) is partly made from light metal, like magnesium alloy or aluminum, I have very bad experience with silicon grease - it will stiffen the working of the threads
Teflon may seep into parts you don't want it - it doesn't have the right viscosity

[Kevin Crisp]

You can buy a tube of lanolin for around $6. It is particularly good on brass threads. It is the main ingredient used by ammunition reloaders to lubricate fired cases before they go into a press.

[Pere Casals]

Pere... how does one determine if a commercial dry Teflon product is polarized or not. I’ve been using Finish Line (and quite satisfied) but packaging doesn’t give a clue.

To me it's difficult to say what are polarized if manufacturer does not say it.

This one it is: https://www.amazon.com/Interflon-Fin...gateway&sr=8-1 The "Fin" lettering says it's not food grade.

This one it's the same but it's food grade atoxic, H1:

https://www.amazon.com/Interflon-Foo...gateway&sr=8-4

Don't take the "Grease" in spray version, you want the Food Lube or the Fin Lube.

Also this one it is:

https://eshop.wuerth.de/Product-cate...gid/en/US/EUR/

My guess is that polarized microparticles are made by big chemical corporations and then several brands make formulations from that. Final formulation is important because of penetration and solvent action that removes dirt.

Würth product is good but I find Interflon better, it's the best I've personally tested in demanding industrial usage.

Problem is that some brands use plumber's teflon microdispersed in oil, this is as good as the oil alone, but if price is high enough then some people think it's very good: inverse marketing

If the threads (and the rest of the objective) is partly made from light metal, like magnesium alloy or aluminum, I have very bad experience with silicon grease - it will stiffen the working of the threads
Teflon may seep into parts you don't want it - it doesn't have the right viscosity

One has to be careful with a damaged thread if it is well lubricated, because then we may make a new thread easily !

Best is first using a lens thread repair tool, then rotate the filter back until we feel the thread entry point and then screewing with a lot of care.




With plastic and soft metal threads we always should rotate back until we feel the entry point, even if the thread is ok.

[Doremus Scudder]

Well, this is likely blasphemy, but here goes...

I grew up fly fishing. We always lubed the ferules before assembling the rods with... nose grease.

I've used the same on stubborn filter threads with great success.

Some say it removes or reduces the scratches on negatives when printing; I've yet to try it for that.

It is handy, cheap and plentiful. Not sure if it's polarized though...

Doremus

[Tin Can]

A well known very good oil, Doremus!

Nasal sebum

[BrianShaw]

A well known very good oil, Doremus!

Nasal sebum

... as long as it’s your own!

[Tin Can]

I think the only other source is from some part of a whale.

... as long as it’s your own!

[Dan Fromm]

Well, this is likely blasphemy, but here goes...

I grew up fly fishing. We always lubed the ferules before assembling the rods with... nose grease.

Spin fishing, ferrules lubed with nose grease. IIRC, Al McClane recommended it in the mid '50s.