If you wear glasses be sure the goggles fit without smashing your glasses into your face.
If you wear glasses be sure the goggles fit without smashing your glasses into your face.
I have noticed that the Raspberry-Pi micro-computer has an IR sensitive camera available as an accessory. Has anyone tried making a large changing-box with the IR-camera poking through a hole, with a couple of IR-LEDs, and then the computer and a small screen on top of the changing-box? This would be very cheap and might avoid the problems of low quality goggles fitting improperly. Or should I try out the idea and then sell the result for a 150 dollars, pounds or euros?
Yes, I have a pair of eyeglasses that fits. These things can be miserable and not worth the trouble. I came to Jobo late in life, with the goggles less frustrating. I have idiopathic neuropathy, in my hands. This is the great equalizer.Originally Posted by Jac@stafford.net
When it's warm in the darkroom my glasses fog over.
This is how the biggest labs handle splicing film end to end to go through the continuous processors. I've seen a video online. Operator sits in front of a work station, hands go in front like any glove box, there's a flat screen that the operator can see exactly what's going on. Amazing how quickly the film is trimmed and spliced goes onto huge reels ,then to a continuous processor.
This is what I remember, I had three IR box right but it's for repairing tears.
https://youtu.be/YnPYVqaY3Kw
Pretty cool.
The ATN monocle has been a game changer for me, but the harness is really fiddly and it's almost impossible to use with glasses.
Well, the NOIR (actually no IR filter) camera for the Pi is sensitive around 940nm, and you can get 940nm IR diodes easily enough. Ilford data implies that the film sensitivity ends around 850-870 nm for FP4/Delta 400. I would still do a lot of cautious tests considering the cost of a box of film and the proximity of the LED to the sensitive material.
And definitely no IR or extended sensitivity film!
TMY-2 is extraordinarily NOT sensitive to the human-detectable red light of the LED of the ATN-Viper.
I chose to cut down its light anyway because I wanted to have an extra degree of safety.
Before buying “whole darkroom” infrared, be sure it’s close enough to visible light, because these “1st generation” IR viewers are NOT sensitive to real infrared. They’re “near” infrared.
And actually that’s pretty good for the purpose. When it comes to film that doesn’t have extended red sensitivity.
The toy goggles I use have near IR LEDs and IR LEDs. I taped over the NIR array. I bought a "infrared illuminator" for a security camera, it's a flood. Lights up the whole darkroom. I haven't used it for a while. The built in IR on the goggles works fine. I've had it 2 feet from film for the time it takes to load a reel. Never had a problem. If you are agile and using familiar equipment there's no need. What I could do 20 years ago, I need help with. These give me just enough to make it as easy, like it used to be.
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