7x11 Camera Build

[Andrew O'Neill]

Beauty! Now get out there and take some photos!

[Mark Sampson]

Beautiful camera! It must be an extra pleasure to photograph with a camera you made yourself. "Fine tools contribute to fine work".

[Michael Roberts]

A beautiful job and I'm sure I will refer to your post for tips during my current build.

Thanks Jim! High praise indeed considering your experience building and using ULF cameras!

[Michael Roberts]

Beauty! Now get out there and take some photos!

Thanks, Andrew! Heading out to Yosemite and other points west next week!

[Michael Roberts]

Beautiful camera! It must be an extra pleasure to photograph with a camera you made yourself. "Fine tools contribute to fine work".

Thanks Mark! Hope so, I will find out next week!

[Michael Roberts]

Pics showing the bottom of the camera: hinges and spring back clips.

It's hard to see, because the hinges are 1" x 1" and the top layer of the rear rail is also 1" wide, but the hinge (top leaf) is attached to the front of the rear camera frame and (bottom leaf) to the back of the rear rail. Each leaf is 1/2" x 1" and the rear rail is also 1/2" x 1" (top layer and 1 1/4" wide on the bottom layer).

When opened, the rear frame sits just behind the camera base. This makes it easy to slip on an elasticized focus hood.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Pics showing the bottom of the camera: hinges and spring back clips.

It's hard to see, because the hinges are 1" x 1" and the top layer of the rear rail is also 1" wide, but the hinge (top leaf) is attached to the front of the rear camera frame and (bottom leaf) to the back of the rear rail. Each leaf is 1/2" x 1" and the rear rail is also 1/2" x 1" (top layer and 1 1/4" wide on the bottom layer).

When opened, the rear frame sits just behind the camera base. This makes it easy to slip on an elasticized focus hood.

So Michael you were able to get the hinges attached to the rear rail without splitting the wood? I guess the hinge is strong enough to support the back because of its lightweight. Simple and effective.

[Michael Roberts]

Yes, Jim, I worried about this as the mahogany can be fairly brittle, but I drilled 1/32 and 1/16 pilot holes (IIRC, depending on the screw size--#2 or #4) before putting in the screws and had no problems. About half way through the build I bought a chunk of beeswax as recommended by the fastener salesman at my hardware store. Rubbing beeswax on each new screw made putting the screws in a breeze.

[Tin Can]

I could see the beeswax but thought it might be glue.

Beeswax is a better idea!

[Michael Roberts]

Here's an update on this build.

The camera has been a joy to use this year, with its combination of light weight, movements, and how well everything locks down.

I finally tested the bellows length to see if I can focus my 36" (914mm) lens and was delighted to find that I can (from 25' to infinity, stopped down). I added a 6" quad rail to fully extend the bellows to 34" and a 3+" lens board extender for 37+" total length.

Setup indoors 'cause it's too windy outside today.

The front is supported by a monopod with a rail support I fabricated from mahogany scraps left over from the build. Helps mitigate shutter shake.

I also fabricated three additional backs for 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10.