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Thread: 7x11 Camera Build

  1. #81

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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    The additional backs fit inside padded envelopes and a slim cheap nylon briefcase.

    An additional accessory is what I am calling a mid-rail. The front standard screws into it. It has beveled sides with cork, and I can wedge this inside the front rail to focus short fl lenses so I don't have to retract the front rail all the way. Permits rear back tilt with short lenses.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0418.jpg   IMG_0419.jpg   IMG_0420.jpg   IMG_0421.jpg  

  2. #82
    Film and Darkroom User
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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    Hi Michael,

    I have been following your post for a long time, thanks for all of the detail.

    Two of us here in the UK are building 5x12 'point-and shoot' style cameras with ground glass screens. We were wondering why you had not ordered spring steel for your spring backs rather than brass? We have been looking through the McMaster catalog at their spring steel offerings but are not sure which is the best type to use. Can anyone here advise? TIA

  3. #83

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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    Hi Barry,
    I used the brass feeler gauge from McMaster, product number 2317A16. It comes in a 10ft roll. I cut the length I need and hammer one side to temper (cold work) it. I can cut it and taper one end with tin snips and file the edges and corners.

    I went with brass springs just to match the rest of the hardware. Of course, you could go with all steel hardware, just personal preference.

    They also have these feeler gauges in both steel and stainless steel.

    There is a thread here somewhere on metal for springs. I will update this reply if I can find it.

    Cheers.

    Here it is: https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=metal+springs

  4. #84
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: 7x11 Modified Rochester Optical Design and Build

    Timely

    Thx All!
    Tin Can

  5. #85
    Film and Darkroom User
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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    Thanks for the information, mucin appreciated.

  6. #86
    Do or do not. There is no try.
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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    Michael,

    Thanks for linking to this in your recent 5x8 build posting. I don't know how I missed it the first time around. Now that I've read through all of it I have some questions.

    1. You used two brass strips with clamping nuts to lock down the rear extension but only a single brass strip (photographer's right, assuming said photographer is behind the ground glass) for the front extension locking. Has that proven sufficient?

    2. Front swing/shift is locked with a nut bearing directly on wood. How has that held up? I would have thought you'd have a thin slotted brass strip for the locking nut to bear upon. This question also applies to the front rise and rear tilt locking.

    3. The front standard detaches for folding like the Intrepid and some other designs, right?

    4. The base appears to be only 1/4" thick. Do you have any issue with it flexing on a tripod? Or is the overall weight low enough that it doesn't matter? My Nagaoka 4x5, with the same base thickness, uses a smallish metal plate screwed into the base.

    5. What would you change if you were to build this camera again? I suppose this question is indirectly addressed in your 5x8 thread, but there may be specifics associated with the increased size of the 7x11.

    Thank you.

  7. #87

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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    Hi Steve,
    Thanks for your questions! Here goes:

    1. Yes, the brass strip is only on one side and yes, it has always been sufficient. There's no reason you couldn't put another on the left side if you wanted to, however. The real risk will be when (if) pointing the camera straight down or up. So far, I haven't needed to do that.

    2. Not a problem. Both the thumb nut and the low-profile steel nut are pretty wide, plus there are three coats of polyurethane on all sides of the wood parts. So there are three layers of plastic over the wood.

    Again, it would be easy enough to add a brass strip or washer, or both, as you suggest. The only problem I have had with the front standard is (1) the weld nut I had epoxied into the rail pulled out once when I had a heavy lens on it and was pointing up at about 45 degrees. I fixed that by screwing two through-holes and screwing it into place in addition to the epoxy, and (2) a lack of rigidity, which I addressed by gluing two pieces of wood into the corners of the uprights and the base. I have considered adding a 45 degree brace to the front with an anchor (similar to the rear frame anchor/brace) glued to the sliding rail, but I haven't needed to do this yet. If I decide I'm having problems in windy conditions I will revisit this idea. This is the nice think about building your own camera. You can continue to customize it as needed.

    3. Yes, I have since added a retaining clip so I can leave the thumb nut/stud in the front standard base. I just cut a piece of old film and made an X in it with an Xacto knife. I would love to figure out how to grind some of the threads off the stud, leaving 1/8" at the bottom to screw into the nut, but I haven't figured out how to do that yet. I've got a hand-held grinder but I have yet to try it. I have a similar nut/stud on a vintage F&S tripod that is my inspiration for this. I haven't looked closely at the Intrepid or Chamonix to see how theirs work.

    4. I haven't had any problems with the base flexing. I think this is due to the overall light weight as well as the rigidity provided by the sidewalls and the screwed-down keeper rails. Also, I hardly ever use a QR plate. Most of the time I place the camera on a 6"x11" platform that screws directly on to my tripod legs (see pictures below). I used a Graflex Crown Tripod No. 4 for years and got attached to using the 6.5" platform. A few years ago, seeing my friend Michael Kadillak's lightweight FLM CP30 L4 II tripod convinced me to give it a try, but I still wanted a big platform to attach my camera to. So I made this platform. It's 3/8" mahogany, covered with felt on one side. I installed a 1/4-20 tripod socket so the platform screws directly onto the legs and takes the place of a head. I borrowed this tripod screw from either another vintage tripod or a tilting platform head (not sure which). I can place the camera in one of two locations depending on whether I'm using a shorter or longer lens. The platform is light weight and works great. When I do use a QR plate and ball head, I use the largest QR plate I can find. Currently, it's about 5.25 x 1.5".

    5. I've been really happy with the camera! Its light weight makes it a joy to use in the field. I did add a second front standard attachment to the rear of the rail. This way, I never have to extend the rail behind the camera; the rail always moves forward. Pulling the rail back, behind the rear frame was a problem b/c there was no room for rear back tilt; by adding the nut to the back of the rail means I never have to worry about that and it also is more convenient to put the viewing hood on and take it off. The only thing I would change at this point is the paint I used on the front bag bellows. I just used plain latex paint. On the 5x8 build, I used fabric paint, and it leaves the fabric much more flexible. The old latex is rigid and doesn't really give me the flexibility for extreme wide-angle lenses I was hoping for. I'm thinking about tearing it off and replacing it the fresh fabric coated with this new (to me) fabric paint.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20240219_183741577.jpg   IMG_20240219_183732957.jpg   IMG_20240219_183819720.jpg  

  8. #88
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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    Hi Michael,

    Here's another question, if you don't mind.

    The base is made of 1/4"-thick craft wood glued edgewise. How do you ensure that it stays flat during the gluing operation?

  9. #89

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    Re: 7x11 Camera Build

    Good question, Steve!

    I did not have any problem with the base panel staying flat with the 7x11 or with my 5x8 build. I glued the panels one day, let the glue dry overnight, and began coating with polyurethane the next day. This process may be time-sensitive since the poly prevents moisture and temperature changes from warping the wood.

    OTOH, when I tried gluing up a similar panel for a much larger 22x22" base, I had all kinds of warping. I don't remember if I left the raw wood exposed for several days, instead of immediately poly coating, and that was the difference or not. When I get time, I plan to try another large panel and make sure to begin the coating process no more than 12 hours after gluing.

    There are a number of how-to videos on YT, like this one that demonstrate how to clamp the panels: https://youtu.be/kYhrrgxZcOI?si=TClZMcA72tSb2ok2

    Also, I glue up the panels on a flat surface--either a glass table top or a melamine sheet.

    Here is a supplier I have used for mahogany planks, though I got a dozen on sale for about half this much: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...nsional-lumber

    I think this might be a better deal: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/w...roduct-details
    Last edited by Michael Roberts; 27-Feb-2024 at 15:29.

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