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Thread: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

  1. #1

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    Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    I'm planning on building a 30x40cm (12x16") camera. The camera will have bellows and some sort of geared fine focusing.

    I'm testing with simple meniscus, magnifying glass, etc. lenses, but I'd like to find some options. I have searched the forum but didn't find answer to my question.

    What I'm trying to find is a LF lens that would cover the image area without *hard* vignetting. So that the image circle wouldn't be shown on the negative, and so that it would cover an 8x10 area somewhat sharply. See attached pic.

    So, vignetting is desirable and and softer the corners the better

    Thanks, Henri
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails lens_12x16.jpg  

  2. #2
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    Use a lens that works for the bigger format and place a vignette gobo in between the lens and subject.

    A sawtooth circle of cardboard, which was common on old studio cameras.
    sin eater

  3. #3

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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    Recommend either a 250mm or 420mm FUJINON SF. I had a 250mm that, without the diffusion disc, covered 11x14 image wise, but exhibited that "soft vignetting" from the central 8x10 image to the corners of my 11x14 negatives.

  4. #4

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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    One quite common suitable lens is the Derogy Aplanat which was a popular lens for 30x40cm (and larger!) tailboard travel cameras of France, Germany and Italy. Size 7, which I have, is the recommended for 30x40cm - your wish for dark corners means that the no.5 or 6 may be a better choice.
    Hermagis and the others had a similar range, but don't appear as often.

    UK RRs of similar focal length (50-60cm) would also fit the bill, but are expensive.

  5. #5

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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    If you vignette in camera, the final print will be vingetted lighter, not darker. Is that what you are after? I'd personally add the vignette during printing to darken, not lighten the corners.

  6. #6

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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by blue4130 View Post
    If you vignette in camera, the final print will be vingetted lighter, not darker. Is that what you are after? I'd personally add the vignette during printing to darken, not lighten the corners.
    Are you sure?

  7. #7
    Nodda Duma's Avatar
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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Moe View Post
    Use a lens that works for the bigger format and place a vignette gobo in between the lens and subject.

    A sawtooth circle of cardboard, which was common on old studio cameras.
    I was going to recommend pretty much the exact same thing.

    Regards,
    Jason
    Newly made large format dry plates available! Look:
    https://www.pictoriographica.com

  8. #8

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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Fromm View Post
    Are you sure?
    Thanks for my sanity check. Guess my morning coffee hadn't kicked in.

  9. #9

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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    Thanks a lot for the suggestions! I'll look in to them.

  10. #10

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    Re: Nicely vignetting lens for an 30x40cm ULF camera build

    Quote Originally Posted by Henrim View Post
    I'm planning on building a 30x40cm (12x16") camera. The camera will have bellows and some sort of geared fine focusing.
    I admire people going into own production, but sometimes there is an easier way!

    30x40cm is a format which requires big lenses and stable front standards. It was a popular format from 1890 - WW1 and I have owned 3 examples - all in perfect condition. They often come with brass fitments on the side of the front standard to mount the rods for vignette cut-outs!

    Suitable wood for build-it-yourself large cameras is not that easy!
    Making film and plate holders is a more demanding exercise than camera building.

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