The OP, just to be sure, might try using a standard lead pencil to make an "X" in the center of the frosted side of the ground glass. The X will provide a useful target for making sure the loupe itself is properly adjusted. Just focus the loupe until the pencil mark is at maximum sharpness. I do this, and also use gaffers tape to make sure my loupe stays in focus. I check the loupe's focus each time I go out to photograph.
Keith
Just take off the les, point the camera at any bright area and focus the loupe till the gg grain is sharp. It should then be equally sharp at any point on the gg if the standards are square to each other.Originally Posted by Keith Fleming
Well, let me to add some thoughts, maybe it`s not your case.
-First of all, if you're used to digital, think that some find film soft looking by comparison.
-Your loupe is fine, as long as it is adjusted for your eyesight.
-If you have "lack of grain" at the enlarger, it could happen that your film is too soft (no contrast), your light source is also low, or the lens is not contrasty enough wide open for an easy view.
-Of course, everything must be clean and perfectly aligned (camera and enlarger), lenses used at optimal settings, etc. If not, sharpness is merely matter of luck.
-What about the film/developer? Acutance increases sharpness perception. Lack of acutance look soft.
Or drill a hole through the ground glass center and try aerial focusing. A cheap glass burr will do the trick. They are okay for one use, then just throw it away when done.
Thank you to everyone for your answers and tips, I will try them this weekend if I have time. I do know that the GG and Fresnel are installed correctly, as per the instructions from Toyo. I also had the same problems without the fresnel. I do take longish exposures at times, 1-3 seconds not sure if the film reciprocity is an issue with sharpness?
No... LIRF may only led to an underexposed negative or loss in the shadow detail, but if your exposure is ok...
at 2-3 seconds LIRF should be very low.
Hi Again,
I was still having the problem after trying peoples suggestions. I got a super good deal on a Sinar F2 with everything, Bag bellows case etc. Cleaned it up and tried out some photos this weekend and they came out sharp like they should be. I used the same lenses 210, 90 and 150 all Rodenstock. Also the same tripod and head as well as the same film and developer as before. I can only assume that there was something wrong with the back on the toyo or some other defect in its equipment. It's too bad as it had more features that the Sinar but it is primarily a camera for the studio. The Sinar F2 is better suited for what I want in a camera, lighter, easily packable and easier to break down for transport. I have a Lowepro pro trekker AW I just got for $20 and I can easily fit the Sinar and accessories in it. That woukd have been near impossible with the Toyo plus it is much heavier. Now I have to sell the Toyo somehow and a brand new Tenba car case I got for it.
Based on the description, problem with the Toyo could be the distance between film holder seating area to ground glass. This distance is critical to producing proper focus from what is observed on the ground glass to the film in the film holder.
-Does the Toyo have a fresnel and it is properly positioned?
As for the Toyo having more "features" than the Sinar F2, does the Toyo really have more features given the Sinar is a broadly compatible system from Norma to Sinar P2 and more. Your Sinar F2 can be up or down graded depending on image making needs. To change from 4x5 to 5x7 to 8x10 is essentially sliding off the rear standard and bellows then sliding on the rear standard of film or digital format of choice. If geared camera movements are needed, apply Sinar P or P2 standards with the frames as needed on to the basic rail. Then there is the Sinar Shutter allowing the use of many lenses without shutter. Masking lens shades, filter holders and a LOT more are easily available and fully useable on your Sinar F2. Due to the large number of Sinar and Sinar camera accessories sold these accessories are not too difficult to find and purchase.
Bernice
Congrats on a good deal on a terrific camera system!
I'm curious about your thought that the F2 was lighter, easily packable and easier to break down for transport compared to the Toyo D45M. When I looked at the F2 I was seeing weights in the 3.3 kg range. My D45M comes in at 3.55 kg with the short rail, standard bellows, adapter board, tripod foot and a Manfrotto adapter plate for the 410 head. The compendium adds a bit more weight, as do the extension rails (which are steel).
Here's my D45M inside a little Gura Gear Kiboko 22L backpack. It's wearing the compendium and a lens. I take the foot off so the camera slides into the space better; the foot is stored in that little pouch. Altogether, it's no lightweight, that's for sure. But it's quite packable. I can get my lenses in there too, but it's not convenient. I regret selling my own Lowepro Pro Trekker AW. You've inspired me to see if I can find one for $20 too!
Enjoy your camera.
Here's the D45M in profile. It's wearing the compendium and the standard bellows. I'm replacing the bellows with a new set that are thinner and lighter; I had to coat this set liberally with RTV to plug all the light leaks, so now it doesn't compress properly.
This is the camera (in the position shown above, minus foot) inside the backpack.
And here's the closed-up Gura Gear Kiboko 22 L.
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