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Thread: American Southwest in full Autumn

  1. #51
    Les
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Ex-Seattlelite living in PNW
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    1,235

    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    I was there (at Zion) on Nov 4th-6th and there were no signs of any shuttle. I can confirm this. By the way, I couldn't dial in better weather. Indeed, if shuttle does not operate, you can use your vehicle to drive in.

    As to other places "House On Fire", etc......we've been telling you the place is intensely rich in beautiful red dirt and visuals galore. The entire SW is like this, and not just Utah. I had over 250 places targeted and only saw what I could (in 70 days :>).

    Actual access to Wave:....you need to check out BLM at Kanab, UT and that's where the lottery takes place at 8:30AM. The actual access and the hike is short drive from there - they will give you a map. You can give a try and if your number does not come up, you can always go to Zion/Bryce/Valley of Fire or No. G. Canyon....all not far away. When I was there, 82 people were in the room and most had long faces after the lottery pics. No idea what the wait is, but you might try to get that through the web.

    If you have dark bag/tent with you, you may ask them at the airport to do hand inspection.....assuming you and they have time for this.

    As to LA, you'll likely hit some traffic no matter what - some folks rip to Vegas after they get off work on Fri -...tho the longer you delay it in LA, the better. Frankly, I'd rather see a movie (etc.) vs sitting in traffic for 2+ hours. This is one of reasons many of us tried to sway you to fly to Vegas and start from there, besides Vegas is closer to all the locations you are trying to see.

    Les

  2. #52

    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    15

    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    I think because Zion is busier than it used to be the shuttle runs later, I was there Oct 31st and the shuttle was running. It takes a bit of extra time, but the shuttles run pretty often. Plus there are some nice short trails between most of the stops and with the shuttle you don't have to walk back.

    I think there is there is an online reservation for half the permits, with almost 6 months to go maybe there is still room, i'd try it out. The Fire Wave in Valley of Fire is nice too and easy access, but (from pictures, never been) the Wave looks quite spectacular.

    I remember long time ago going to Joshua Tree on Friday night from Santa Monica, it took at least 2 hours to get out of LA! I would stop at a Whole Foods (if they have those in LA) and stock up on food and water.

  3. #53

    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    334

    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    Sorry to wake a slightly aged thread, but I just saw this. I live in southern New Mexico (about 50 miles from White Sands National Monument) and every year I take a motorcycle trip through the four corners states (NM, AZ, UT, CO.) These are opinions I’ll throw out based on my experience. They’re mostly non sequiters.

    - no matter how many times I visit the Grand Canyon, and tell myself I’ve already seen it, it still blows me away. I’d recommend the north rim over the south rim. It’s both less crowded and easier to access if your coming down from Utah. This is probably impossible with a rental, but on the northwest end of the canyon is Toroweap/Tuweap (google it for some photos). Since it is at the end of a 60 mile dirt “road”, it is usually empty, but it is one of the most spectacular parts of the canyon.

    - I may ruffle some feathers here but Bryce and Zion are over rated. This is mostly due to the crowds. If there were no crowds Zion would be amazing. Bryce feels to me like a Disneyland national park, and while the geology is fascinating, everyone is funneled to certain viewing points.

    - Capital Reef is everything I love in a national park. It’s large enough that you won’t feel crowds anywhere except at the visitors center. The road through to Hanksville has one stunning view after another. Highly recommended.

    - Route 95 south of Hanksville to Blanding is my favorite stretch of road on the planet. Right before you get to Hite and the northern tip of Lake Powell you are going through red rock canyons with 100-200 ft cliff walls on either side. There are a light smattering of deciduous trees in the base on the canyon. In October the leaves become shocking yellow which is amazing against the red rock canyons. After you pass the canyons an it open up to the lake, the landscape will make you think your on Mars. Stark, almost no vegetation, it’s amazing. Later on that road you can also stop at Natural Bridges (very different that Arches as the bridges are created by river erosion.

    - if you turn north at Blanding on 191, you’re a few hours from Moab which is the primary access point to Canyonlands. Really getting into Canyonlands requires a 4x4, however from Moab you can access Arches (which is a must.). Dead Horse Point is a state park but it gives you a great overlook of Canyonlands. The road to Dead Horse will also take you to the Canyonlands “Island in the Sky” overlooks and is paved.

    - Alternatively before you get to Blanding on 95, there is a turn south toward Moki Dugway. The Dugway is an cool road that drops 1000 ft elevation in something 3-4miles. The switchbacks are paved, but the rest of the descent is temporarily dirt. It is fine for cars though. At the top of the Dugway is a dirt road to a spot called Muley Point that overlooks the Valley of the Gods. Another great vista. The road to Muley point is dirt, and I can’t remember if it is car friendly, or will need a 4x4.

    - Just south of the Dugway is Mexican Hat. It is the northern access point to Monument Valley. Also at Mexican Hat is Gooseneck State park. It’s similar to Horseshoe Bend on the Colorado river, but slightly smaller (not small at all though) and it has more bends. Valley of the gods is there too, but I believe the access roads are dirt—I forget. Then, like I said, Monument Valley.

    - Colorado has some amazing mountains, passes and lots of other stuff, but it sounds like you will be hard pressed to get there, so just a couple quick comments on CO: In the SW of Colorado is the San Juan mountain range. It’s closest to where you will be, and it is the most rugged of the mountains in the CO Rockies. Rt550 between Durango and Ouray is justifiably famous with hundreds of views. It is a tourist road though so it has a lot of traffic. Dot drive it if you have a fear of heights. Another amazing spot in Colorado is Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s pretty far east (just west of Estes Park) so you probably won’t make it, but the last time I drove through we were driving the ridge line road at 11k feet, and there was a solid cloud cover—below us. It was amazing and surreal.

    - it also sounds like New Mexico is going to be a little too far for you to get to, but I’ll throw out two things in the northwest of the state: Chaco Canyon. These Pueblo dwellings are really something to see including the natural environment. They’re only accessible by dirt road but it is manageable by car. Second is Bisti Badlands. Not far from Chaco, it can be a strenuous hike, but some truly unique rock formations. Mostly unknow—you’ll be the only person there.

    There are lots and lots of other things you could visit, but these are my opinions. I have almost never been to California or Nevada so I can’t provide any input on how it compares, except to say that I can’t imagine anyplace besting SE Utah.

  4. #54

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    North Italy
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    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    Yes the thread might be slightly aged but I haven't made the trip yet, so your opinion is equally useful as much as appreciated. Thank you abruzzi!

  5. #55

    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    334

    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    No problem. I travel it every year, so I’m always looking for new and interesting bits I haven’t seen.

  6. #56
    Drew Wiley
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    Sep 2008
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    SF Bay area, CA
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    18,338

    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    Concerning what Abruzzi recently posted, it's never been crowded in Zion when I've been there, generally in November. But there are back door routes in if you're a backpacker, and lots of stunning solitude opportunities if you're willing to explore its many secondary canyons. That high pass he refers to in the San Juans between Ouray and Durango is indeed photogenic, and basically a freeway compared to some of the roads where I'm from; but it's all relative, and perhaps not ideal if someone is not accustomed to mountain driving. But scary... naah. Bisti Badlands is ignored quite a bit, but quite rewarding if you like to wander amidst interesting natural clay ornamentation; but don't do it on a hot day, and carry plenty of water. I'd agree that SE Utah might have some of the most spectacular nooks and crannies on earth (those nooks and crannies often being quite monumental in scale), and I have visited there repeatedly. But if you think California is anything less, Abruzzi, you truly have not explored here much. I grew up right on the edge a canyon in California twice as deep as anything on the Colorado drainage, and in portions as remote, rugged, and unvisited as anything you could think of in Utah. And mountains? I've personally taken hundreds of backpacking trips into the high Sierra over sixty years now, and have probably seen less than 30% of it. And we have big spectacular desert areas too. But I would like to get back to the Utah canyon country in the next few years; that whole area is addictive. The Wind River Range in Wyoming in on my radar this summer, since the snowpack in the Sierra is so deep this season that it might be more practical in late September, when the mosquitoes have died down too. You should visit some of our high country here; but carrying spare blood instead of water in a canteen might be good advice if you arrive in July, when the bugs are at their peak of activity.

  7. #57

    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    334

    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    I don’t have any issue with California except I’ve only been there twice, and both times were in cities (LA area to buy a bike to ride home, and Berkeley for a concert I flew in for) so I can’t really compare.

  8. #58

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
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    North Italy
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    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    Just a quick bump to this old thread to thank everyone involved. All your suggestions were seriously taken into consideration and made my trip the best one to date. My vacation is sadly over but I managed to bring back a full baggage of experiences, precious moments, vivid colors and photographs and, last but not least, a new friendship.

    I drove for 3450 miles, around 5550 km, passing from California, Arizona, Utah, Nevada and back to California. Obviously I couldn't visit everything I wanted nor everything you suggested, but there will always be a second time.

    There would be too much to tell, but this is not a family moment around the fireplace. So i'll just say a couple of things.

    First, the American Southwest is truly unique, I envy any of you guys living in it. You have everything. Photography-wise, wherever you turn to, there is a photograph to be made in front of you, it's like playing the game in easy mode, no offence. But I get the impression that it's not that different in other areas of the US, such as the vast prairies of the middlewest. Too different from the crowded, obnoxious urban place I live into. Every local, also, seems to enjoy their life and routine, I rarely found this level of kindness and politeness. I met this senior photographer with a 4x5 Arca Swiss in the middle of Grand Staircase-Escalante along the road, I pulled over, introduced myself, and as soon as he saw my 4x5 on my shoulder a new friendship was born. The man is professional photographer Jeff Garton, 70, from Texas, he co-published a bunch of books. We exchanged real addresses as he doesn't own a computer, and that made my day.

    Lastly, there were news about the TSA using new CAT scanners at security checkpoints at LAX. I thought I was screwed. You may want to know that those scanners are not (yet?) installed at LAX Terminal B, which is I guess for international flights. I asked for a hand check which was granted but eventually I had to choose for the X-ray scanners. Since the seals on my boxes were broken, they demanded to either let them open the boxes or go under the scan.

    Now it's time to process the film I brought home. 27 transparencies, 69 color negatives and 15 rolls of 120 film.
    I leave you with the first three slides I worked on as a little heartfelt thanks. You may guess where they were taken.

    Massimo






  9. #59
    Les
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Ex-Seattlelite living in PNW
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    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    Glad you had a good time and it's v. nice of you to return to this thread with results. Ha, that (Velvia ?) could have been taken at Zion or Escalante area, tho I've seen some spots near Flagstaff that resemble the scene. Awesome. Agree, the area has immense photo potential. Hope to see some more....

    Les

  10. #60
    Alan Klein's Avatar
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    Re: American Southwest in full Autumn

    Nice shots welcome back.

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