Kodak 10 Inch f/6.3 Commercial Ektar with Acme No. 4 shutter

[ManWithManyHobbies]

I'd look at the back and center on the light trap.

Sorry Larry, I'm a noob to LF, i don't understand the terminology.

-JW:

[Larry Gebhardt]

Sorry Larry, I'm a noob to LF, i don't understand the terminology.

-JW:

JW, if you look at the back of your lens board it has a raised ring. I believe that's a light trap to keep stray light from sneaking past the lens board. Some cameras have an opening only as large as the diameter of this ring. So you don't want anything sticking out of the back of the board outside this ring or it will interfere with mounting the board on the camera. The back side of the flange is very close to the size of the ring, so you'll want it centered in the ring in order for it to work.

[ManWithManyHobbies]

JW, if you look at the back of your lens board it has a raised ring. I believe that's a light trap to keep stray light from sneaking past the lens board. Some cameras have an opening only as large as the diameter of this ring. So you don't want anything sticking out of the back of the board outside this ring or it will interfere with mounting the board on the camera. The back side of the flange is very close to the size of the ring, so you'll want it centered in the ring in order for it to work.

There's a lip on the backside of the spacer. The purpose of it being to center the spacers in the bore of the lens board. It doesn't protrude past the backside of the lens board and is flush with the backside. I won't use any machine screws and JB Weld it to the lens board. Then I won't have to contend with any machine screw head interference issues.

-JW:

[Ken Lee]

You're a knowledgable and resourceful craftsman, but if this runs into a dead end or down a bottomless pit you should feel free to contact S.K. Grimes.

This would be trivial for them and they could make something perfect for your requirements: the finished product would look like that lens and shutter was deigned just for your camera.

Grimes made 2 adapters for me so I could shoot a 1950's Artar lens on both my 1920's 5x7 Kodak 2D and also on any camera with a Technika board. See http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/lenses/index.php#Alphax

If you don't care to wait on the end of their work queue, you can pay a bit more and have them rush the project.

[ManWithManyHobbies]

Thanks for the suggestion Ken, it's appreciated. I have the ability to make this from 'machining an object' perspective. I just don't have a complete understanding of LF camera components. BTW, S.K. Grimes just happens to be engraving a aperture cover for a Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 150mm I snagged at Goodwill. I'm sure I'll be going through a similar scenario mounting that too. Who knows, I may end up buying a 4x5 monorail type camera down the road which will handle these with no issues.

Thanks for your time,
-JW:

[Chauncey Walden]

I've found the ring on the back of the Linhof/Wista boards to be more of a nuisance than anything else. All of the boards I have made for my Linhof are flat on the back. I have never had a light leak problem. If the board is a good fit in the camera there will be no problem. That said anything on the back side of the board, like screw heads, nuts, etc,. gets flat black paint to avoid reflections coming from the light on the film, or stray light from the lens on the bellows.