Experiences re: Calumet Archival Print Washer

**Willie** · 6-Mar-2019, 17:26

On a platform for it. Might look at used desks from military surplus and colleges. Got all metal that supports a large darkroom sink and another for dry mounting station - for $15 total plus "haul it away". They had so many they were dumping them for almost nothing.
Easier and less expensive than making a table of wood.

**Greg** · 6-Mar-2019, 17:54

Once had and used a Calumet Archival Print Washer. Remember making slight modifications to it to decrease the fill rate, but that's all I remember. Now use a Kostiner archival washer which looks very, very much like the image you posted. Also had to decrease the flow rate to the Kostiner print washer, mostly because the previous owner had modified it to a horrendously high flow rate. Does anyone out there know what the optimal water exchange (flow) rate should be? East Street Gallery (hope I have that name right) once published an extensive paper on the optimal way of washing FB prints, but have long ago lost their catalog and published papers

**Bruce Barlow** · 6-Mar-2019, 18:11

I have a Zone VI washer.

I put prints in it, and run water for about 15 minutes. Then I shut it off and let the fixer leach out of the prints. After 1/2 hour, I turn on the water for about ten minutes, which will ensure one complete change. HT2 test confirms that there's no residual fixer on the fiber prints, and I've saved a bunch of water.

I used to have a governor-thing on my hose that limited the water to 1 gal/minute, but it got old and no longer worked reliably. Now I just guess. Close enough for photography.

**Mike in NY** · 6-Mar-2019, 19:49

Instructions for the Calumet washer, including the suggested method for achieving an optimal flow rate, can be found here (I used it to calibrate the flow on my Calumet):

http://www.rangeoflightphotography.c...l%20Washer.pdf

**Tin Can** · 6-Mar-2019, 20:08

Thank you!

**Duolab123** · 6-Mar-2019, 21:53

All of these washers use a lot of water. They only make sense if you are washing a lot of prints. A good reality check is to put 3 or 4 drops of red food coloring in the full washer, then at 1 gallon a minute see how long it takes to clear. If you want a really good test put some sort of fluorescent dye tablet like are used in plumbing tests. These things work great if you fill them run for a bit drain and refill. I use a small recirculation pump salvaged from a Noritsu processor. I fill the unit, shut the valves, turn off the water and let the washer run with the pump. The pump gives more vigorous agitation. After a bit I drain tye washer, refill from a bucket in one big whoosh, and turn the pump on again. Test your prints, you will be surprised how well this works.
I've noticed in the past at low flow rates, 1 gpm, I have had millions of tiny air bubbles, really tiny on the surface of the prints. The only cure for this is to increase flow. I do it with a pump.
I should save the wash water, you could probably drink it after a bit. Probably not something to recommend

**Duolab123** · 6-Mar-2019, 23:07

Originally Posted by Willie

On a platform for it. Might look at used desks from military surplus and colleges. Got all metal that supports a large darkroom sink and another for dry mounting station - for $15 total plus "haul it away". They had so many they were dumping them for almost nothing.
Easier and less expensive than making a table of wood.

That's a great idea.

**Bernard_L** · 6-Mar-2019, 23:43

I use a small recirculation pump salvaged from a Noritsu processor. I fill the unit, shut the valves, turn off the water and let the washer run with the pump. The pump gives more vigorous agitation. After a bit I drain tye washer, refill from a bucket in one big whoosh, and turn the pump on again. Test your prints, you will be surprised how well this works.

+1
Most print washers make no distinction between recirculation and water renewal; as a result they waste a lot of water. I made a check, washing 12x16" prints in a large and deep tray (about 22x26") with an aquarium pump to move water (and prints) around. 10 minutes, then empty/fill water. After two cycles the HT-2 test was OK, so the third cycle was for good measure and peace of mind.

**LabRat** · 7-Mar-2019, 02:34

Suggestions are to make sure the base sits evenly on a flat level surface so the washer is not strained over time possibly causing failure much later on, don't leave them filled when not it use as it is unecessary strain and mineral buildup, and it's a very good idea to place in a large basin or sink in case of breakage, the mess will be confined...

Yes they wash a lot of prints at once, but do have their downsides (as mentioned) high water use, complete changes of water happen slowly by dilution flow, long wash, sometimes one corner and edges of prints can discolor from long washes with micro rust hitting the same areas, and I have seen units that sat on uneven surfaces break from strain over time and leave a big mess...

Leave unwashed prints in a holding tray or washer, but don't start the wash flow until all of your session's prints are in, then wash all together for the same time...

Steve K