Dear members,
Anyone has experiences in cutting 11x14 film to 5x7 size? I have two boxes of infared 11x14 films and would like to have one box (50 sheets) cut to 5x7 size.
I tried to cut one sheet by myself the other day and it was a complete failure. I put some tapes on the cutting board as guide, but it didn't work.
I would be glad to send film to be cut for a fee if there is a place or someone who can do it.
Thanks.
Hugo
Hugo I cut down 4x5 from 8x10. Instead of tape I use magnetic tape, being a bit thicker than tape I can feel when the film is hard against it. I have one for cutting the 5 inch then on the other side of the cutting board another magnetic tape for the 4 inch. I did have to reinforce with a bit of glue.
I've been cutting 8x10 to 5x7, no problem. I used a good paper guillotine with good fixtures for the size of the cut.Originally Posted by Hugo Zhang
Check if 7 is the half of 14, math says it is but it may not be true in practice, as sheet sizes are specified sligtly under the glass plate size.
This was made (long ago) in that way to allow a "film insert" inside glass plate holders, so holders could take both glass plates and sheets, but sheets had to be slightly smaller than the nominal plate sizes.
So i'd take two 5x7 sheets to be placed on a 11x14 sheet, or check if 14" halves fit well in your particular holders.
You can cut film with the help of IR night vision googles for total confort, also there are cheap toys that may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxAV3SVgEPk
I use 'real' film of the desired size as a template and don't measure anything.
Lay the 'waste' real film squared up on the cutter and slide it until you can just lift the edge at the cutter edge. By soft touch.
Then move the 'production stop' gently in alignment with the other side of the film while holding the waste film in position.
Lock it in with matt board and gaff tape.
Reading on this thread about magnets I will next try them as I have some from an old copy steel grid.
I also test with paper, before using rare film.
Tin Can
Not that different than cutting down 8x10 film to 5x7 film.
Cut a sheet of cardboard-chipboard on the paper cutter to be used to assure the cutting guide is straight. There will be a tendency for the cardboard-chip board to skew as it is being cut due to it's thickness, so hold it down firm and assure minimal movement during the cut. A really sharp paper cutter makes all the difference.
Use double stick tape like carpet tape or similar on the edge of the cut cardboard-chipboard to set up the film cutting guide.
Use an old sheet of 5x7 film as a guide to set up the cardboard-chipboard cutting guide against the blade. This will help to assure the cut film will be parallel end to end. Stick down the cutting guide once it is properly aligned.
Film must be cut in the dark. Set everything up on the cutting table, then rehearse all the moves and memorize the location of paper cutter, film to be cut and a place to store the film once cut.
Wear cotton gloves to stop finger oils-acids and other hand-finger contamination from damaging the film.
Make sure the emulsion side is up to reduce emulsion damage.
Darken the room, do the first edge cutting, then repeat to finish up with the second cut edge.
Place cut film in to a light tight box emulsion side up.
Set up a film guide to clip a small chamfer corner off the same edge as would be film notches. This is important as this is how the emulsion side will be located when the film is loaded into film holder.
Takes a bit of practice but not too difficult after doing this a few times.
Bernice
I would be careful about using 'night vision' gear for assistance as the IR illuminating diodes will most likely fog your IR film.
Hugo, what kind of cutter are you using to cut the film? I have a Kodak M3 Rotary trimmer that works well. Let me know if you want to use it.
Of course.
Conventional film has no IR sensitivity, this is Delta 100:
There are IR films that are IR sensitive, for example Ilford SFX 200:
In this case IR LEDs to be used should be of longer wavelengths, common IR cheaps leds were 875nm, 850nm, 940nm because these wavelengths are mass manufactured for TV remote commands, etc, so if one manipulates an special IR film then one must check what wavelengths he is using, as today shorter IR wavelegths are also cheap.
Video sensors in IR cameras have sensitivity reaching beyond 1000nm (if no blocking filter on sensor), so in any case IR special film can also be manipulated under the right IR illumination, for common film, no problem, at least with moderate IR power.
Last edited by Pere Casals; 25-Jun-2019 at 15:59.
Yes, thank you. I only mentioned that because the OP said he was cutting down 11x14 infrared film. So in this case, he shouldn’t use any IR gear for this task.Of course.
Conventional film has no IR sensitivity, this is Delta 100:
There are IR films that are IR sensitive, for example Ilford SFX 200:
In this case IR LEDs to be used should be of longer wavelengths, common IR cheaps leds were 875nm, 850nm, 940nm because these wavelengths are mass manufactured for TV remote commands, etc, so if one manipulates an special IR film then one must check what wavelengths he is using, as today shorter IR wavelegths are also cheap.
Video sensors in IR cameras have sensitivity reaching beyond 1000nm (if no blocking filter on sensor), so in any case IR special film can also be manipulated under the right IR illumination, for common film, no problem, at least with moderate IR power.
Its been awhile since I've re-cut film to smaller sizes...but I do remember having some problems with a run of the mill guillotine type cutter - which tended to create sharp, slightly raised "ridges" on the cut side of the films. These ridges would then often lead to film scratching during shuffle (tray) development.
A roller type (circular blade) cutter solved the above issue, at least for me....although I think a top quality guillotine cutter would work fine, if used with care.
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